The Monumental Complex

It's the month for things eerie and haunting, perfect for describing our visit to one of the most famous and historical buildings in Amalfi, Italy.

That's because it includes an ancient burial ground and a crypt, more on these later.

Duomo di Amalfi

This structure is a striking blend of Romanesque, Byzantine, Gothic, and Baroque architecture with stripes, arches and mosaics. It's regarded as one of the great testaments to Roman Catholic architecture in the region. 

The medieval Amalfi Cathedral (Duomo di Amalfi; Cattedrale di Sant'Andrea) dominates the most famous square in the town (Piazza del Duomo). It's dedicated to the Apostle St. Andrew, brother of St. Peter and protector of Amalfi, whose remains are housed in the Crypt. 

Admission ticket to The Monumental Complex

Referred to as The Monumental Complex of St. Andrew, this huge complex also includes the Cathedral of Saint Andrea, the Basilica of the Crucifix, which houses the Diocesan Museum, and the Cloister of the Paradise.

History of the Cathedral

The cathedral was founded in 987 next to an ancient church dating from the 9th century and was built on the ruins of a Paleochristian church of the 6th century, now known as the Basilica of the Crucifix.  In the middle ages, the two churches were a single large complex with six naves. 

Cloister of the Paradise (Chiostro del Paradiso)

In 1266, the sixth nave was demolished to allow construction of the Cloister of the Paradise (Chiostro del Paradiso), an ancient cemetery of the nobility built between 1266 and 1268 to house the tombs of wealthy Amalfi citizens. Restored in 1908, it features a garden surrounded by Moorish arches and marble columns, along the perimeter are several chapels.

Frescoes in the Cloister of the Paradise

The medieval frescoes within the cloister were once part of the original cathedral’s interior decoration. They depict various religious scenes, including the lives of saints, biblical stories, and symbolic imagery. The frescoes later were transferred to the cloister for preservation as protection from weathering and deterioration. 

 Cathedral steps as depicted on a table

Access to the cathedral complex is gained by walking up 62 wide and steep steps. These steps distinguish the cathedral from most Italian churches, including the Basilica of Saint Peter in Rome. The reason for the steep access is that the original church was built on a high hill overlooking the town to offer citizens shelter during times marked by pirate raids and attacks by rival city states. The staircase did not always exist in its present form, it was added in later years after threats had lessened.

 Main bronze doors of the Cathedral, circa 1057

The cathedral's main doors, made of medieval bronze, were cast in Constantinople (now Istanbul) in 1057, the gift of a wealthy Amalfi merchant, Pantaleo de Maurus Comite, who was working there. These are the earliest post-Roman manufactured doors in Italy. The doors consist of 28 panels that are arranged in three horizontal rows. Each depicts scenes from the life of Christ or St. Andrew and four central figures represent Christ, the Virgin Mary, St. Andrew and St. Peter.  

 Basilica of the Crucifix altar

The Basilica of the Crucifix, the first church on the site, dates to 596 AD and this was the primary church in Amalfi until the current cathedral was built in 1100.

 Treasures in the Diocesan Museum

Inside the Basilica is the Diocesan Museum, set up in 1996, which exhibits precious treasures including a 13th century Norman-Angevin gold miter, an elegant 14th century French chalice and a silver altarpiece (above) which was formerly in the crypt.

Inside the Crypt of St. Andrew

No, it's not a scary experience, but an amazing beautiful one. A staircase in the Basilica of the Crucifix leads to the Crypt of St. Andrew, the patron saint of Amalfi (also Scotland and Russia).

 Interior of the Crypt of St. Andrew

According to tradition, St. Andrew went to Greece to announce the Gospel and was believed to have been martyred in the city of Patras. In 357, his remains were transferred to Constantinople and put in the new Church of the Holy Apostles built by Emperor Constantine. In 1206, during the Fourth Crusade, the remains were brought from Constantinople to Amalfi by Cardinal Peter of Capua. When the crypt was completed in 1208, the relics were turned over to the church.

Main Altar in the Crypt of St. Andrew

This is the large main altar topped by a large bronze statue of St. Andrew created in 1604 by Michelangelo Naccherino and patterned after Michelangelo’s sculpture, David, and flanked by marble statues representing St. Stephen and St. Lawrence. Behind it is a small, richly decorated case containing the back of the skull of St. Andrew (sorry didn't get a photo). The rest of the saint’s relics are buried below the altar.

Marble statues of  St. Stephen and St. Lawrence

On special days, it’s said that the saint's remains exude a liquid called, St. Andrew’s Manna. Despite the fact that this has been happening for 750 years and that many people have been anointed and believe it has healing qualities, the church doesn't recognize it as miraculous. 

Medieval frescoes on the crypt ceiling

The ceiling has magnificent frescoes that date to the 12th century. Some that represent the Passion of Christ are framed by rich, elegant, gilt stucco-work done by Vincenzo de Pino, an artist from nearby Scala. The crypt is also decorated with Baroque murals from the 1660s.

Interior of Amalfi Cathedral

Climbing stairs up from the crypt, leads to the amazingly beautiful cathedral, with its splendid Baroque interior that dates from the 18th century. 

Main altar in the cathedral

The high altar in the central nave is formed from the sarcophagus of the Archbishop Pietro Capuano (died 1214). Above the altar hangs a painting by 17th century italian artist Andrea dell'Asta, The Martyrdom of St. Andrew. The coffered (boxed) ceiling down the center aisle dates to 1702 and artwork here has paintings with scenes from the life of St. Andrew, including, the Crucifixion of the Apostle and another painting by Dell'Asta, 1710 Miracle of the Manna. 

The triumphal arch is held up by two Egyptian granite columns. The painting, The Martyrdom of Saint Andrew by Andrea dell’Asta, is above the altar. A wooden 13th century crucifix hangs in the liturgical area. Another crucifix, made of mother-of-pearl, was brought from the Holy Land and is located to the right of the back door. 

Side altars in the cathedral

Along the sides are several chapels in the Gothic and Renaissance styles. 

The Cathedral Bell Tower

The Romanesque-style bell tower of the Amalfi Cathedral is listed among the 20 most beautiful bell towers in Italy. 

Cathedral bell tower took over 100 years to build

The tower was started in 1180, and completed over 100 years later. It has four towers around a larger one, all decorated with brightly colored majolica tiles forming interlaced Gothic arches in an Arab-Norman style. During war times, the bell tower was re-purposed for defense.

According to legend, if you go up the cathedral stairs hand-in-hand with the one you love, you will never get married. Obviously, no one told this couple in advance or maybe they were already married.

The Duomo of Amalfi is open daily for mass. During the regular church service, entry is allowed without purchasing a ticket of admittance.

We bought our tickets. The cost of 4 euros was well worth the experience of visiting this beautiful structure, despite the hike up those stairs. 

Going down was much easier and the reward for that exercise was a gelato afterwards in the piazza. Yes, it was delicious especially on a very warm day.