Medieval Manhattan

San Gimignano – The Manhattan of the Middle Ages as viewed from afar

If the post title sounds unusual, it's because that's exactly the words most often used to describe the town of San Gimignano in Tuscany. The town has become one of the most popular tourist spots in Italy due to its amazing architecture, namely towers..Its unique architecture gives the town an unmatched skyline in the Tuscan countryside as seen in the above photo. We visited this hilltop locale on a day trip during our tour of the Tuscan region last fall. 

San Gimignano was named after St. Geminianus, the bishop of Modena, who according to local legend, saved the city from attack by Attila the Hun. This small walled medieval hill town is in the province of Siena, Tuscany, north-central Italy, some 25 miles from Florence and Siena. Its hilltop location overlooks the Tuscan countryside. The well-preserved buildings within its walls include notable examples of both Romanesque and Gothic architecture.

The town's fame and appeal derives from its well-preserved medieval architecture and iconic skyline of medieval towers, impressive in height and construction. Built using traditional Tuscan stone and brick, the towers were designed to withstand the test of time. While unique today, in the Middle ages, towered skylines were more commonplace. Some were built as a refuge against attackers, others were vacant, chimney-like structures built bolster the owner's egos. Feuding noblemen ran the hill towns, each had a private army that would often battle things out from the protection of its respective family towers.

San Gimignano (1923) by M.C. Escher: Internet source

The 1923 artwork, San Gimignano, created by Dutch graphic artists M.C. (Maurits Cornelis) Escher is a detailed representation of the medieval town characterized by its distinctive towers and architectural structures. The artwork is a black and white, woodcut is considered to be in the art movement known as Realism in the cityscape genre. Escher was a printmaker known for his use of scientific and mathematical concepts to create intricate optical illusions.

Some of the towers in San Gimignano

In 1990, San Gimignano was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This designates a location designated by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) as possessing outstanding universal value to humanity. The sites can be cultural, natural or mixed and are inscribed on the World Heritage List to ensure protection for future generations.

In the Middle Ages and the Renaissance era, San Gimignano was a stopping point for Catholic pilgrims on their way to Rome and the Vatican, due to its location on the Via Francigena.

Via Francigena: Internet source

The Via Francigena, known also as the road that comes from France or Via Romea Francigena the road to Rome that comes from France, is an ancient road that goes from the English cathedral city of Canterbury through France and Switzerland, to Rome and then to Apulia, Italy, where there were ports of embarkation for the Holy Land. In medieval times, this was an important pilgrimage route for those who wanted to visit the Holy See. 

This unique architecture and its tower skyline dates to 12th and 13th centuries. That's when a conflict between two rival families, the Guelphs and the Ghibellines, erupted in San Gimignano. The building of towers became a competition of whoever built the tallest tower. 

The richest and most powerful families competed to outdo each other. Toward the end of the Medieval period, there were 72 tower house, the tallest up to 230 feet tall. The rivalry was curtailed in 1255 when the local council interceded and ruled that no tower was to be taller than that next to the Palazzo Comunale (Municipal Palace).

Many towers were torn down or destroyed during World War II. Currently, only 14 of the original towers remain standing. These are still enough to make San Gimignano the Italian town with the most towers. The tallest remaining tower (177 feet) is Torre Grossa (Thick Tower). It was built in 1310 to enrich the town and became its symbol while functioning as a military watchtower and a civil bell tower. Visitors (which did not include ourselves) can climb 218 steps to the top to enjoy panoramic views of the town and the Tuscan countryside.

Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta, exterior

After the towers, the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta is recognized as the most significant monument in San Gimignano. It's located in the Piazza del Duomo, which translates to cathedral square. But, while the name of the square implies that the Roman Catholic church was once a cathedral, it was not. The church is more commonly known as the Collegiata, a reference to the college of priests that originally managed it. The church was consecrated in November 1148 and was dedicated to St. Geminianus, the town's patron saint. Damaged in World War II, it underwent restoration in 1951 

Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta, interior

Situated in cathedral square since the 12th century, the interior of the church follows a traditional basilica plan, marked by 14 classic Tuscan stone columns. Its main attraction are frescoes lining the cathedral walls, which depict stories of the New and Old Testament and colorful decorations typical of the medieval period. 

Palazzo Comunale (Municipal Palace) 

Other important buildings on the square include the Palazzo Comunale (shown above) and the Palazzo Podesta, the house of the mayor. 

Piazza della Cisterna (town square)

No Italian town would be complete without a central town square and here it's the Piazza della Cisterna built in the 13th century. Originally located at the crossroads between Via Francigena and the road connecting Pisa to Siena, the square also hosted markets, festivals and city tournaments.

Cistern at the center of Piazza della Cisterna

The Piazza della Cisterna named after the cistern built in 1287 was the main source of water for town residents who would get water from the well. The well is no longer in use, but has become a popular gathering spot for visitors who sit on its steps and children who explore the top (which is sealed off). The square is ringed with various restaurants, bars and shops for dining and shopping for traditional crafts, such as pottery, glassware, leather goods and handmade textiles.

Food products made from wild boar (cinghiale) are very popular in this region, especially when made into salumi, which is deeply rooted in Italian culinary traditions and techniques. It refers to any Italian cured meat, including sausages, hams, and other meats. We didn't sample any the day of our visit here. But, on a different day trip, Patrick enjoyed boar-stuffed ravioli, so much that he considered buying boar meat in the U.S. until he learned its cost.

The alleys are narrow and became quite very crowded during our visit. Shops lined the walkways and being in a hurry was not the best way to explore this town.

Although our visit to San Gimignano was a wonderful day trip, it was also somewhat hectic, especially at midday when many tourist buses leave off day visitors, as the center of San Gimignano is car-free. Despite the often walkways, we spent a great time navigating the town's narrow streets and exploring.

There was time to enjoy what became one of our favorite treats during our time here. One of the most interesting features about San Gimignano is the competition between two gelaterias located close to the town square and directly across from one another..

There were non-stop customer lines at both of these establishments, of course we joined in and enjoyed delicious gelatos. Now, I can't recall which place we tried.

Before leaving, we made sure to appreciate this wonderful view which was just before entering the town of San Gimignano.

We hope to return not only for the gelato — also for the history and the views.

They All Lean

The Piazza del Duomo (Cathedral Square) in Pisa, Tuscany, Italy, is one of the most visually striking squares worldwide. Additionally, it has been recognized as one of the finest architectural complexes in the world. Seeing these structures on our October trip to Tuscany was to put it simply, amazing.

Piazza Duomo (Square of Miracles) consists of Baptistry, Cathedral and Campanile

The Piazza Duomo in Pisa, which translates to plaza of the cathedral, was renamed the Piazza dei Miracoli (Square of Miracles) by writer Gabriele d’Annunzio in 1910 because of the amazing architectural masterpieces within this square considered by many to be "miraculous" feats of design and construction. Since 1987. it has been a UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) World Heritage Site. (Such landmarks and areas have legal protection under an international treaty for having cultural, historical, or scientific significance.)

More views of these amazing structures

There are three structures: Pisa Cathedral (the Duomo), Pisa Baptistery, and the free standing bell tower (campanile) more commonly known as the Leaning Tower of Pisa. There's also a cemetery, Campo Santo, which we did not explore on our tour.

The idea was to have an important religious centre symbolizing the main stages of life: birth with the Baptistery, life with the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and its Tower, and death with the Cemetery.

The tower is famous worldwide, in large part, because of its slant. Even after being stabilized, the Tower of Pisa still leans. It's not the only leaning structure in this complex.

The weather wasn't perfect this day

The Tower of Pisa is known for its nearly four-degree lean, the result of an unstable foundation. It isn't the tallest bell tower and stands less than 184 feet from the ground on the low side and about 186 feet on the high side. The width of the walls at the base is 8 feet. I'm not sure how a tower is weighed, but this one is estimated to be 16,000 tons. The tower has 296 or 294 steps which can be climbed to reach the top (there is no elevator). 

There are seven giant bells on the top. Each has a name and corresponds to each of the seven musical notes. At first, the bells were operated by ropes which allowed them to ring by swinging. This process as discontinued since the possible vibrations may affect and cause the tower to lean more. Today, the bells are operated by electronic hammers. 

We did not walk up to the top of the tower

Construction to complete the tower took a really long time — nearly two centuries. The tower began to lean during construction in the 12th century, due to soft ground which could not support its weight. Construction continued and the builders tried to offset the mistake. By the time they reached the fourth story (out of a planned eight), they had to make the arches on the south side two inches taller than those on the north. The tower continued to lean. Unsure of what to do, construction was halted for almost a century.

The tower in relation to the cathedral, a short walk

By the time, the tower was completed in the 14th century, it leaned even more. By 1990, the tilt had reached 5.5 degrees. Between 1993 and 2001, the tower was stabilized by remedial work, which reduced the tilt to less than 4 degrees. In 2008, engineers declared that the tower had not only been stabilized, but had stopped moving for the first time in its history. They further stated that it would be stable for at least 200 years.

Ironically, Pisa gets its name from a Greek word meaning “marshy land” because of the terrain which is mainly made of clay. 

During WW II, the Allies suspected the Germans were using the tower as an observation post. A U.S. Army sergeant sent to confirm the presence of German troops in the tower was so impressed by the beauty of the cathedral and campanile that he refrained from ordering an artillery strike. All the structures were spared from possible destruction.

The baptistry is in the rear of the cathedral

The Pisa Baptistery of St. John is not only the largest baptistery in Italy but in the world. It was built to replace an older baptistry. Construction started in 1152 and when completed in 1363, it became the second building, in chronological order, in the Piazza dei Miracoli, near the Duomo di Pisa and the cathedral's free-standing campanile, the  Leaning Tower of Pisa. Like the cathedral and the campanile. the Baptistery is built of Carrara marble. Constructed on the same unstable ground as the tower and cathedral, the Baptistery leans 0.6 degrees toward the cathedral. 

Interior view of the baptistry ceiling

While the interior lacks any ornamental decoration, its acoustics are remarkable. Every half hour, the attendant on duty enters, stands next to the font, and sings a few notes that echo around the internal walls. Sounds reverberate long enough to the singer to form a 3-part harmony.

The very large baptismal font and pulpit

The focal point of the baptistry is the baptismal font built by Guido Bigarelli. . The bronze sculpture of St. John the Baptist at the center of the font was done by Italo Griselli. The famous pulpit was sculpted between 1255-1260 by Nicola Pisano. The scenes on the pulpit demonstrate his talents as the most important precursor of Italian Renaissance sculpture.

The long wall is part of the cathedral

The baptistry was positioned beside the cathedral because unbaptized people were not allowed inside the church until they had been baptized. In medieval times, this was done by full immersion, which is why the font is so large. The word "baptism" derives from the Greek word for immersion.

Another view of the cathedral

Pisa Cathedral (Cattedrale di Pisa) is one of the largest churches in Europe and it measures over 328 feet long by 229 feet wide. This medieval Catholic cathedral is dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary is the oldest of the three structures in the plaza followed by the Pisa Baptistry and the campanile. The cathedral, like the bell tower, is also sinking visibly into the ground.

A partial view of the cathedral roof

The dome of the cathedral has an octagonal shape. The cathedral is a notable example of Romanesque architecture. Construction which began in 1063 was completed in 1092 and was funded by spoils received fighting against the Muslims in Sicily. As one of the superpowers of the Mediterranean, Pisa needed a Duomo to reflect its prestige. Consecrated in 1118, it is the seat of the Archbishop of Pisa. Additional enlargements and a new facade were built in the 12th century. The roof was replaced after it was damaged by a fire in 1595.

Interior views of the cathedral

The interior architecture includes various stylistic elements: classical, Lombard-Emilian, Byzantine and Islamic, which reflects the international presence of Pisan merchants at the time. This style which has become known as "Pisan Romanesque."

Ceiling of the cathedral was truly amazing

After entering the cathedral, one of the most impressive sights is the gilded coffered ceiling. It displays complex geometric designs and religious symbols as well as the stem of the Medici family.

Souvenirs abounded in the local shops, but we abstained

There was no shortage of souvenirs in the Pisa shops. Anyone so inclined could bring home a leaning tower. We bypassed all of these.

After lunch, we indulged with a gelato treat. Although the weather was not the best on the day of our Pisa visit, seeing these magnificent structures was a definite highlight of this Tuscany trip, most likely a once-in-a lifetime visit.

A Ride Up High

View of Montecatini Alto from Montecatini Terme

Many fellow bloggers commented that they liked this image in a previous post. It shows a vintage carousel in the Tuscan spa town Montecatini Terme with the hilltop town of Montecatini Alto in the background.

Montecatini Alto, which translates to Montecatini high, dates to medieval times, even before the existence of Montecatini Terme. This little town was a fortress due to its strategic position, the land below was marshland which made it difficult to invade.

Funicolare di Montecatini

The most enjoyable way to reach the medieval village of Montecatini Alto is by taking a round trip ride on the Montecatini Funicular, known in Italian as the Funicolare di Montecatini. A one-way trip is just under 9 minutes riding on two distinctive red trains, Gigio and Gigia, once called Number 1 and Number 2.

Gigia and Gigio trains

These are now the oldest cable railway funicular cars in operation throughout Italy. The red cars run throughout the day ascending and descending the steep hill to Montecatini Alto every half hour from 9:30 am to 12 pm with a break between 1 and 2:30 pm. A round trip ticket is the equivalent of $7.50 in U.S. dollars.

A funicular is a type of cable railway system that connects points along a railway track laid on a steep slope. The cable car runs on the cog and wheel principal. This system is characterized by two counterbalanced carriages permanently attached to opposite ends of a haulage cable, which is looped over a pulley at the upper end of the track.

Passengers wave to those on the opposite car when passing

Work on the funicular that connects the towns of Montecatini Terme and Montecatini Alto began in March 1897 and was completed the following year. Its inauguration in June 1898 was attended by the Italian composer Giuseppe Verdi. It has been modernized over the years, but the cars have not been modified. Riding up on either of the red cars, the atmosphere is much the same as years ago with wooden benches and external balconies with space to stand and enjoy wonderful panoramic views which we did.

View of the track from the top station

In 1921, the original steam system was replaced with an electrically driven winch, the rest of the original equipment remains receiving maintenance adjustments. The two red trains travel a distance of 1077 meter (0.669 mile) reaching a maximum slope of 38.5% (an average slope is 20.5%). 

Originally, the funicular used a large steam boiler located downstream replaced by an electric motor drive in 1921. Over the years, there have been some interruptions to service. It ran safely until September 1944, when retreating soldiers set off explosives damaging parts of the tracks halting service until 1949. In 1977, technical adjustments were needed and it closed until 1982. Due to the intervention of regional government, cars were restored and the latest equipment was installed.

Ticket office for the 1898 Funicolare

Riding on the funicalare isn't the only way to reach Montecatini Alto. There's a pedestrian walking path, known as the Corta, a 30-45 minute walk depending on the pace with some steep areas. There's also a bus and motorist route.

Part of original wall around Montecatini Alto (Internet source)

At one time, Montecatini Alto had a protective wall with 25 portas or doors. The doors were actually towers, some still remain. Like Montecatini Terme, the town has connections with the powerful Florentine Medici. In 1554, Cosimo dei Medici almost destroyed it, burning down its archives and eliminating its earliest history.

The landscape is dominated by the Tower of Ugolino, dedicated to Ugolino della Gherardesca, Count of Donoratico, an Italian nobleman, politician and naval commander. 

Torre dell’Orologio (clock tower), Montecatini Alto

The tower, known as the Torre dell’Orologio (clock tower), remains from the ancient fortification. The clock dates to the 1500s and was modernized in the 1700s with clock hands. The roman dial and numerals followed in 1844. You might wonder why the clock has 6 Roman numerals not 12. This is an example of an Italian clock in which time was divided into 6 hours repeated 4 times. This system, devised by the church in the 13th century, remained in effect until the Napoleonic era. Not many clocks of this type remain; there are 25 in Tuscany.

Teatro dei Risorti, Montecatino Alto

One of the most unique buildings here is the Teatro dei Risorti, an extension of a 14th-century building (Loggia del Parlascio) where assemblies and markets were held. During the 1950s, it became a cinema, replacing the backdrop with a screen painted white. It is one of the oldest theatre spaces in the Italian region of Tuscany.

Piazza Giusti, Montecatino Alto

The small town square is filled with restaurants. In the center is Piazza Giusti dedicated to Giuseppe Giusti, a northern Italian poet and satirist, who lived there for years. Restaurants and bars overlook this area, still covered with stone paving.

Dining outdoors in Montecatini Alto

After a short exploration in the town, ourselves and travel companions (Judy and Sandy) enjoyed a wonderful lunch on the main square. (To answer David G's question about lunch, Patrick had wild boar ravioli; my dish was spinach and ricotta in freshly made cannelloni pasta. Our friends enjoyed a homemade pasta dish as well.)

We enjoyed some final views in Montecatini Alto before heading back to the funicalore for our return trip.

A view of Montecatini Terme from Montecatini Alto.

If you are ever in this area, do treat yourself to a ride on these trains and a visit to this hilltop town. The views alone were worth the ride. The small town was wonderful to explore in the short time we had before lunch.