Medieval Manhattan

San Gimignano – The Manhattan of the Middle Ages as viewed from afar

If the post title sounds unusual, it's because that's exactly the words most often used to describe the town of San Gimignano in Tuscany. The town has become one of the most popular tourist spots in Italy due to its amazing architecture, namely towers..Its unique architecture gives the town an unmatched skyline in the Tuscan countryside as seen in the above photo. We visited this hilltop locale on a day trip during our tour of the Tuscan region last fall. 

San Gimignano was named after St. Geminianus, the bishop of Modena, who according to local legend, saved the city from attack by Attila the Hun. This small walled medieval hill town is in the province of Siena, Tuscany, north-central Italy, some 25 miles from Florence and Siena. Its hilltop location overlooks the Tuscan countryside. The well-preserved buildings within its walls include notable examples of both Romanesque and Gothic architecture.

The town's fame and appeal derives from its well-preserved medieval architecture and iconic skyline of medieval towers, impressive in height and construction. Built using traditional Tuscan stone and brick, the towers were designed to withstand the test of time. While unique today, in the Middle ages, towered skylines were more commonplace. Some were built as a refuge against attackers, others were vacant, chimney-like structures built bolster the owner's egos. Feuding noblemen ran the hill towns, each had a private army that would often battle things out from the protection of its respective family towers.

San Gimignano (1923) by M.C. Escher: Internet source

The 1923 artwork, San Gimignano, created by Dutch graphic artists M.C. (Maurits Cornelis) Escher is a detailed representation of the medieval town characterized by its distinctive towers and architectural structures. The artwork is a black and white, woodcut is considered to be in the art movement known as Realism in the cityscape genre. Escher was a printmaker known for his use of scientific and mathematical concepts to create intricate optical illusions.

Some of the towers in San Gimignano

In 1990, San Gimignano was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This designates a location designated by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO) as possessing outstanding universal value to humanity. The sites can be cultural, natural or mixed and are inscribed on the World Heritage List to ensure protection for future generations.

In the Middle Ages and the Renaissance era, San Gimignano was a stopping point for Catholic pilgrims on their way to Rome and the Vatican, due to its location on the Via Francigena.

Via Francigena: Internet source

The Via Francigena, known also as the road that comes from France or Via Romea Francigena the road to Rome that comes from France, is an ancient road that goes from the English cathedral city of Canterbury through France and Switzerland, to Rome and then to Apulia, Italy, where there were ports of embarkation for the Holy Land. In medieval times, this was an important pilgrimage route for those who wanted to visit the Holy See. 

This unique architecture and its tower skyline dates to 12th and 13th centuries. That's when a conflict between two rival families, the Guelphs and the Ghibellines, erupted in San Gimignano. The building of towers became a competition of whoever built the tallest tower. 

The richest and most powerful families competed to outdo each other. Toward the end of the Medieval period, there were 72 tower house, the tallest up to 230 feet tall. The rivalry was curtailed in 1255 when the local council interceded and ruled that no tower was to be taller than that next to the Palazzo Comunale (Municipal Palace).

Many towers were torn down or destroyed during World War II. Currently, only 14 of the original towers remain standing. These are still enough to make San Gimignano the Italian town with the most towers. The tallest remaining tower (177 feet) is Torre Grossa (Thick Tower). It was built in 1310 to enrich the town and became its symbol while functioning as a military watchtower and a civil bell tower. Visitors (which did not include ourselves) can climb 218 steps to the top to enjoy panoramic views of the town and the Tuscan countryside.

Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta, exterior

After the towers, the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta is recognized as the most significant monument in San Gimignano. It's located in the Piazza del Duomo, which translates to cathedral square. But, while the name of the square implies that the Roman Catholic church was once a cathedral, it was not. The church is more commonly known as the Collegiata, a reference to the college of priests that originally managed it. The church was consecrated in November 1148 and was dedicated to St. Geminianus, the town's patron saint. Damaged in World War II, it underwent restoration in 1951 

Collegiate Church of Santa Maria Assunta, interior

Situated in cathedral square since the 12th century, the interior of the church follows a traditional basilica plan, marked by 14 classic Tuscan stone columns. Its main attraction are frescoes lining the cathedral walls, which depict stories of the New and Old Testament and colorful decorations typical of the medieval period. 

Palazzo Comunale (Municipal Palace) 

Other important buildings on the square include the Palazzo Comunale (shown above) and the Palazzo Podesta, the house of the mayor. 

Piazza della Cisterna (town square)

No Italian town would be complete without a central town square and here it's the Piazza della Cisterna built in the 13th century. Originally located at the crossroads between Via Francigena and the road connecting Pisa to Siena, the square also hosted markets, festivals and city tournaments.

Cistern at the center of Piazza della Cisterna

The Piazza della Cisterna named after the cistern built in 1287 was the main source of water for town residents who would get water from the well. The well is no longer in use, but has become a popular gathering spot for visitors who sit on its steps and children who explore the top (which is sealed off). The square is ringed with various restaurants, bars and shops for dining and shopping for traditional crafts, such as pottery, glassware, leather goods and handmade textiles.

Food products made from wild boar (cinghiale) are very popular in this region, especially when made into salumi, which is deeply rooted in Italian culinary traditions and techniques. It refers to any Italian cured meat, including sausages, hams, and other meats. We didn't sample any the day of our visit here. But, on a different day trip, Patrick enjoyed boar-stuffed ravioli, so much that he considered buying boar meat in the U.S. until he learned its cost.

The alleys are narrow and became quite very crowded during our visit. Shops lined the walkways and being in a hurry was not the best way to explore this town.

Although our visit to San Gimignano was a wonderful day trip, it was also somewhat hectic, especially at midday when many tourist buses leave off day visitors, as the center of San Gimignano is car-free. Despite the often walkways, we spent a great time navigating the town's narrow streets and exploring.

There was time to enjoy what became one of our favorite treats during our time here. One of the most interesting features about San Gimignano is the competition between two gelaterias located close to the town square and directly across from one another..

There were non-stop customer lines at both of these establishments, of course we joined in and enjoyed delicious gelatos. Now, I can't recall which place we tried.

Before leaving, we made sure to appreciate this wonderful view which was just before entering the town of San Gimignano.

We hope to return not only for the gelato — also for the history and the views.