Castling in Ireland

Last fall, we were in a group that traveled abroad on a Shades of Ireland tour, focused on that country. Befitting the trip name, the major portion of our travel was an 8-day motor coach (bus) tour through Ireland. A previous post highlighted one of the Ireland's most notable features, its green. colors. This one highlights a few castles; there's many more.

It's impossible to see all of Ireland's castles, but we managed a handful last fall. Did you know that there are more than 30,000 castles and ruins in this small nation, dating from the 12th to 16th centuries? 

The castles include any sort of fortifications, functioning and/or restored castles of any kind and while they remain standing, many are in ruins and serve as reminders of their importance in Irish history as defensive strongholds during wars and battles. 

Our castle count was  six: three were visited (Blarney, Kilkenny and Ross Castles), one hosted a medieval banquet (Bunratty Castle) and we stayed in one on our last night (Fitzgerald Castle). Our travel group photo was taken near another. This post doesn't necessarily follow in the order in which we visited each of these.

Blarney Castle, home of the Blarney Stone

Blarney Castle is possibly the best known Irish castle steeped in legend and mystery. Located in the countryside of County Cork, Cormac MacCarthy built the medieval castle over six centuries ago to protect the area against invaders. It replaced a stone building which had replaced a wooden building before it. 

Map of Blarney Castle & Gardens

While much of the structure is in partial ruins with no roof covering, some rooms are accessible. Beneath the main structure is a labyrinth of underground passages, built throughout the Middle Ages. Most are inaccessible to visitors today. 

The tall structure beside the castle is the watch tower, and while still standing it was not open to visitors. In its day, this freestanding fortification would have provided a high place for a guard to observe the surrounding area.

Inside the castle, it's a steep climb up some very narrow steps ending at battlements at the top of the castle and views of the surrounding countryside. As tempting as it was to ascend for the views, these passageways are quite confining, and I did not go up. However, Patrick made it to the top.

Kissing the Blarney Stone

At the top of the castle is the reason mosty come to visit this castle — to kiss a block of  limestone, not just any stone, but the world famous Blarney Stone. It carries the legend that whoever kisses it will be blessed with the gift of eloquence. 

Kissing the Blarney Stone is somewhat of an effort that requires leaning over backwards over a sheer drop to touch the stone with your lips. This is usually done with the help of someone. As uncomfortable as this seems now, it was life-threatening years ago with no safeguards of wrought-iron guide rails and protective crossbars. Back then, you would have been grasped by the ankles and dangled from the 90-foot tall castle. Now, doesn't that sound like an appealing visit? 

As with any popular sites, stories abound about the stone's origin. One involves Clíodhna, goddess of love and beauty and the patron of County Cork and Cormac MacCarthy, builder of the Castle. In the 15th century, MacCarthy was involved in a legal issue and appealed to Clíodhna. The legend goes that she told him to kiss the first stone he found on his way to court. After doing so, he pleaded his case with great eloquence and won, which led him to have the stone set into the tower of the castle.

Another story is that the stone was awarded to MacCarthy by Robert the Bruce, King of Scots, in 1314 as a reward for providing support in the Battle of Bannockburn, a battle between the army of Bruce and the army of King Edward II of England, during the First War of Scottish Independence. Legend holds that this was a piece of the Stone of Scone used in the coronation of Scottish kings.

In recent years, the stone has become famous for another reason. In 2009, it was named the most unhygienic tourist attraction. Researchers claimed the stone, smooched by upwards of 400,000 people a year, was the most germ-filled tourist site; no scientific evidence supports the claim. The stone is not alone in being declared germy; other popular listed sites are: Oscar Wilde’s Tomb, Paris; Karni Mata Temple, India; St. Mark’s Square, Venice; Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, Hollywood, CA; Gum Wall, Seattle, Washington.

No, we did not kiss the stone and, as noted earlier, I didn't climb up to see it. Given the acrobatics needed, it did not appeal to either of us; a few members of our group participated. Stone kissing halted during the pandemic and the site was shut down. At its June 2020 reopening, owner, Sir Charles Colthurst, who inherited the Blarney estate in 2003 and manages it full time, was the first to kiss the stone. It's sprayed with disinfectant through the day. Puckering up for a kiss requires waiting until it dries.

The castle grounds include lush gardens, spanning over 60 acres filled with natural rock formations and some poisonous plants, including wolfsbane, mandrake, ricinus, opium poppies and cannabis. Paths have signs pointing out various attractions like natural rock formations named Druid's Circle, Witch's Cave and the Wishing Steps. 

Kilkenny Castle

Kilkenny Castle has been standing for over 800 hundred years, dominating Kilkenny City and the South East of Ireland. Originally built in the 13th century by William Marshall, 4th  Earl of Pembroke, as a symbol of Norman control, Kilkenny Castle symbolized the fortunes of the powerful Butlers of Ormond for over 600 years.

The castle is located in Kilkenny, the Medieval Capital of Ireland. Before touring the fortress, we had hoped to take a walking tour of the city’s cobbled streets, but a steady rainfall the day we visited soon cancelled that plan. Instead, we had this train ride throughout town.

The castle was a symbol of Norman occupation and, in its original condition, formed an important element of the town's defenses with four large circular corner towers and a massive ditch. 

Inside, this fortress there's a grand library, drawing room, nursery, and 19th-century picture gallery showcasing the Butler family's art collection. The castle is surrounded by 50 acres of rolling parkland dotted with mature trees, a rose garden, and wildlife. 

Few buildings throughout Ireland have a longer history of continuous occupation than Kilkenny Castle which has been rebuilt, extended and adapted over a period of 800 years. The first castle was constructed in the Anglo-Norman period by Richard Fitz Gilbert de Clare, and in 1192 was replaced by a stone structure. The Butler family bought the castle in 1391 and it became their seat for the next 500 years.

During the Irish Confederate Wars of the 1640s, the Protestant Butlers were on the side of King Charles I. Catholic rebels captured Kilkenny Castle, and it was besieged by Oliver Cromwell during his conquest of Ireland. Following his return from exile in 1661, Butler remodelled the medieval castle as a more modern chateau.

As you can imagine, keeping up a castle is quite costly and the Butler family struggled to raise the monies needed to keep it maintained. In 1904, James Butler, 21st Earl of Ormonde, welcomed King Edward VIII when he visited Ireland. When Butler died, huge amounts of death duties meant that the castle’s future was in jeopardy. It was besieged by the Irish Free State during the Irish Civil War in 1922, and severely damaged. 

The Butler family relocated to London in 1935 and abandoned the castle.  Most of its furnishing were put up for public auction.

In 1967, Arthur Butler, 6th Marquess of Ormonde sold the abandoned and deteriorating castle to the Castle Restoration Committee for a ceremonial £50 (just over 60 USD) for the people of Kilkenny. He also bought the land in front of the castle from the trustees so that it would never be built on.

The castle and grounds are now managed by the Office of Public Works, and the gardens and parkland are open to the public. It's become the city of Kilkenny's most popular tourist attraction and hosts visitors year round. 

Ross Castle

Ross Castle is a 15th-century tower house situated on the edge of Lough Leane, the largest of the three lakes of Killarney, in the Killarney National Park, County Kerry. The fortress was built in the 15th century by the Irish Chieftain (O’ Donoghue Ross) and is a typical example of the stronghold of an Irish Chieftain during the Middle Ages. The site overlooks the lake. It's reputed to be one of the last strongholds of significance to fall to the forces of Oliver Cromwell  in the 1650s.

To reach the castle, our group traveled through Killarney National Park in open two-wheeled one-horse carts called jaunting cars. This is one of the most popular things to do in Killarney and is mainly reserved as a tourist activity.

Jaunting Carts in Killarney

Built as a mode of personal travel in the 1800s to mid 20th century, the two or four-wheeled horse-drawn rigs carried up to 4 four people. Jaunting became a popular way to describe a pleasure trip by saying that someone was off on a jaunt.

Defenders of the castle knew of a prophecy that foretold the castle could only be taken by a ship. Unfortunately, the leader of Cromwell's force, who also knew of the prophecy, launched a large boat on the lake. Seeing it hastened the defender's surrender thus fulfilling the prophecy.

Legend also has it that Irish Chieftain O’Donoghue slumbers below the lake waters. Every seven years, on the first morning of May, he is said to rise on his magnificent white horse. According to more legend, if you catch a glimpse of him, you'll enjoy good fortune the rest of your life. 

While we didn't see O'Donoghue or his stallion, we took an enjoyable boat ride on Lough Leane. As threatening as those skies behind us looked, it didn't rain.

The castle is open to visitors from early spring to late fall and is one of Killarney’s main tourist attractions, popular during the summer months. It was not open the day of our visit. 

Bunratty Castle

Bunratty Castle is a  15th century that was built in by the Earl of Thomond and stands on the banks of the Rathy River. The Earl entertained lavishly and was famous for his hospitality. Keeping with this tradition of hospitality, the Bunratty Castle Medieval Banquet was created in 1963, as a tourist attraction. For the past 61 years, banquets and entertainment have been provided twice nightly most of the year. These banquets are one of the oldest continual dining experiences in Ireland. Attendees have included international dignities, celebrities, U.S. Presidents and now our travel group.

The banquet was one of our tour options and we didn't get to see much of the castle exterior/interior, except for the entry and dining hall. We were greeted by the Earl's Butler who provided a short history of the castle. He was accompanied by the Ladies of the Castle who performed a  medieval madrigal. We were also given a sample of mead. (Mead is an alcoholic beverage consisting of three ingredients: fermented honey, water and yeast.  It's considered the earliest known alcoholic beverage; believed to predate wine by nearly 3,000 years. It is very sweet and somewhat of an acquired taste.)

This was a fun evening with members of our group being selected to preside at the head table as kings and their ladies. Royalty received the better seats and for everyone else, seating was bench-style along long oak tables and dining by candlelight to reflect the banqueting style of the medieval era.

Quite honestly, this was not the best meal on our trip. While we did not have to dine utensil-less, as might have been done in earlier days, the chicken dinner was uninspired.

After dinner entertainment consisted of a selection of Irish medieval and traditional songs instrumental music and step dancing.

King John's Castle or Limerick Castle is a commanding fortress perched on the banks of the River Shannon on King’s Island in Limerick. It was built on the orders of King John, brother of Richard the Lionheart and was completed around 1210. The castle was built on the boundary of the River Shannon to protect the city from the Gaelic kingdoms to the west and rebellion by Norman lords to the east and south.

The castle is one of the best-preserved Norman castles in Europe as its walls, towers and fortifications remain intact. It's also the most iconic building and visitor attraction in Limerick and served as a backdrop for a group photo. 

Fitzpatrick Castle Hotel

Fitzpatrick Castle was the last castle seen on our tour of Ireland and this one we stayed overnight. The original castle was built in 1740 by Colonel John Mapas. By 1755, it was acquired by Captain Maunsell, and then by a Colonel Loftus in 1770. By 1772, the colonel advertised the castle and its 150 acres for sale. During his time ithere, Colonel Loftus converted the barren stony soil to meadow and pasture and cut a road around the hill. In 1790, his successor, improved the estate further, spending the equivalent of nearly $4,000, quite in the late 18th century.

By 1840, a new owner, Robert Warren, enlarged the house renaming it Killiney Castle. He also donated land and most of the money for the building of Killiney Parish Church. Another owner, Mrs Chippendale Higgan, planted trees and shrubs that remain on the property today to provide a decorative setting for the castle. In the 20th century, Killiney Castle was used by the Black & Tans, the IRA and the Republicans in the Civil War before being burnt by Free State Troops. It was requisitioned by the Government during 1939-45 and used as billets for the army.

Killiney Castle changed hands again in the 1970s when the late Paddy and Eithne Fitzpatrick transformed it into a hotel renaming it (no surprise) Fitzpatrick Castle Hotel. Their daughter and her family own and maintain the hotel today. This stay was a wonderful way to end our tour of Ireland.

Our tour group's farewell dinner was held in the dining room. The next morning, some were leaving for Dublin Airport and flying home. Ourselves and a couple others would be heading to the airport and a flight to our next destination, Edinburgh, Scotland.

If you've come this far, Thanks as this was a very long post. There's more to come about our Ireland trip — cliffs, crystal and whiskey.