Ticket to Ride

Our anniversary getaway wasn't a long-distance road trip but in state. We traveled 2-1/2 hours to Gorham, NH, stayed at the Glen House, the fifth hotel so-named and took a scenic railroad excursion. This post is a long-ish account of our adventure.

The Glen House is at the base of the Mt Washington Auto Road, across the street from the Great Glen Trails Outdoors Center where we boarded the SnowCoach for my February birthday adventure. Back then, we had stopped in for a look around the hotel. Talk about keeping things all in the family — the Libby family, which owns and manages the auto road, also owns this hotel and the Outdoor Center. 

Elihu Libby

The Libbys are descendants of Elihu Libby, who at the turn of the 20th century, bought the Glen House. In 1906, Libby also purchased the then-named Carriage Road, now called the Mt. Washington Auto Road known as the oldest man-made tourist attraction in North America. The 7.6 mile road climbs 4,618 feet from the base to the summit and it re-opened for auto travel last weekend. The drive averages about 30 minutes and while Patrick had considered driving it again, it wasn't the best weekend weather-wise, so it was a train ride this time.

More about the train ride later, first information on our lodgings. While the current Glen House is barely 8 years old, it's the fifth so named hotel in a series of grand resorts and hotels dating to 1852, in Pinkham Notch close to Mt. Washington in the White Mountains of NH. (The Glen is the historic name given to the picturesque valley at the base of the road.)

Hotels abounded in the area with the 1851 completion of the Grand Trunk Railway which established a route from Portland, ME to Gorham, NH, bringing more visitors to the area. (The Grand Trunk Railway operated in the Canadian provinces of Quebec and Ontario and in the states of CT, ME, MI, MA, NH, and VT.)

Photo of the first Glen House  (Internet source)

The first (future) Glen House opened in 1852, when J. Bellows converted a farmhouse into a hotel and sold it to Joseph M. Thompson, who expanded and renamed it to the Glen House. By 1866, the now grand hotel featured views of Mt. Washington, Tuckerman Ravine, and the northern Presidential Range. Guests could go to the summit of Mt. Washington on the newly opened Carriage Road, visit natural sites in the area, or relax in game rooms, parlors, library, dance, enjoy sports, go on a carriage ride, or enjoy a theater show. In 1869, Thompson drowned in a heavy rainstorm after going to check on his nearby sawmill.

The Milliken brothers (who I couldn't find details about) took control of the first Glen House after Thompson's death. Within a few years, the Milliken brothers had not only rebuilt, but again expanded the hotel. But, in 1893, this second Glen House also fell victim to a fire which completely destroyed it. 

Photo of the second Glen House (Internet source)

This time, it was not rebuilt and the Libby family of Gorham, NH, obtained the site and once again it was converted to housing. The servant's quarters, which were not destroyed, were expanded into a 40-room hotel that became the third Glen House. In, 1924, it too was destroyed by fire.

Photo of the third Glen House (Internet source)

In 1925, a smaller fourth Glen House was built serving winter sports enthusiasts and summer travelers. In March 1967, the hotel caught fire and burned to the ground.

Why did these old hotels burn down so often?

The 1860s saw a boom in NH tourism, especially to the White Mountains. which meant more people and possibly more chances of accidental fires or arson. Nearly all hotels were built from wood, making them highly susceptible to fire. Natural factors such as dry conditions, strong winds, and the presence of dry tinder could have contributed to the spread of fires. Fire safety measures were not sophisticated then compared to now. Fires spread quickly causing significant damage and usually resulted in total devastation. 

Photo of the current and fifth Glen House (Internet source)

In September 2018, the current and fifth Glen House opened on Rt 16 in Gorham, NH, outfitted with sprinklers and various safety measures. The 68-room, three-story year round hotel was built with sustainability features. It's heated and cooled by a geothermal system. Building insulation is a combination of spray foam and rigid panels. with LED lighting inside and outside. The Otis elevators regenerate energy when moving up or down, returning energy to the building for use elsewhere. Water fountains provide for filling reusable water bottles. An outdoor fire pit uses propane vs. wood, to help maintain the air quality standard in the Great Gulf Wilderness area west of the hotel. Future plans include installing solar arrays to increase onsite energy production.

Inerior features of current Glen House

The newest Glen House hotel was designed and built mainly by NH firms. It's owned by four families of the Mt. Washington Summit Road Co. of which the Libby family are majority owners. Coincidentally, the annual hotel ownership meeting was being held the weekend of our stay.

Ticket to ride on the Conway Scenic Railroad

Now, onto the train ride, which was the reason for our getaway to celebrate our 1st date anniversary. We had tickets to ride in First Class, costlier than coach seating, but we splurged as this was a once-a-year celebration.

Conway Scenic Railroad depot, North Conway, NH

Above is the exterior and interior of the Conway Scenic Railroad train station which is directly across the Green, the town center in North Conway, NH. The classic 19th-century train station is painted yellow with decorative white trim and red accents and is on the National Register of Historic Places. The Conway Scenic Railroad was established in 1995, running on a line established in 1875 and runs several historic cars. The Notch Train we traveled in consisted of a diesel locomotive Model GP-38; Café car, coach car, open seating car and first class car. 

Diesel engine on Conway Scenic Railroad Mountaineer excursion

This heritage railroad is owned by Profile Mountain Holdings Corp. It operates over two historic railway routes: a line from North Conway to Conway formerly part of the Conway Branch of the Boston and Maine Railroad, and one from North Conway through Crawford Notch to Fabyan once part of the Mountain Division of the Maine Central Railroad. The Conway line is owned by Conway Scenic, the Mountain Division is owned by the State of New Hampshire. Railroads once dominated the White Mountains. 

Open seating car on excursion train

Our trip was on the Mountaineer, a round-trip journey that starts at the main station in North Conway and takes a 4-1/2 hour journey some 50-60 miles through the Mt. Washington Valley and over rugged Crawford Notch to Fabyn Station, NH, and then back to North Conway. The excursion recreates the experience of travel abroad a post-WW II transcontinental streamlined train with passenger cars reminiscent of the 1950s era. In fall months, it's is a very scenic and popular New England trip.

First Class seating was very sparse on this first run of the season

Last weekend's excursion was only the second one of the 2025 season, the train was not crowded. The Mountaineer resumed operations in mid-May with only a Saturday run. High season is starting in June with weekly excursions on Tuesday and Saturday, then in July and August, there's excursions daily, except Monday. This schedule extends through the scenic New England fall season. High season seating is also higher priced. Yikes! our 1st class ticket will be $25 higher than last weekend.

Views along the train ride showing overcast & foggy conditions

While the weather outside was chilly and damp with on and off rain, we managed views of the Saco River and traveled across several viaducts (trestles) through rocky

Abel Crawford

crags at the top of Crawford Notch, which was named for Abel Crawford considered a pioneer of tourist industry in the White Mountains. Crawford and his family were early promoters of the area, as well as innkeepers, guides, turnpike builders and investors. Crawford arrived in the area in 1792 and built a cabin. In the Notch, the Crawford family constructed the Notch House and Crawford House, which was one of the White Mountains’ grand hotels. The first railroad to run through Crawford Notch opened in 1875 running from Portland, ME, to Fabyan, NH. 

Our journey to Crawford Notch included live narration mostly on the first half of the trip, less so on the return which passed the same landmarks in reverse. The narrator noted historic and scenic highlights along the route. Like much of the rest of northern New England, Crawford Notch was part of the homeland of the Abenaki tribe of Native American people. 

Many of the tales were quite unfortunate given the history of this area, which was filled with dangers in the early years. Untimely deaths occurred in many of the stories including the unfortunate tale of the Willey family, the fate of Nancy Barton who died while chasing her fiancé thief and the explosion of the Maine Central 505 in which two men died.

 The Willey House Inn and tavern (Internet source)

Samuel Willey Jr. and his wife, Polly, owned a farm in Lower Bartlett before relocating to Crawford Notch with their five children. They moved in hopes of starting an inn and soon after purchased the Old Notch House built in 1793. Then, Willey hired two men to enlarge and repair the house, turning it into a two-story home with stables and a barn which he then renamed The Willey House Inn and Tavern.

Its location was in a scenic valley filled with sugar maples and spectacular fall colors. The Willeys anticipated tourists would come for the White Mountains scenery, yet most visitors who stayed were NH and VT farmers passing through Crawford Notch heading to Portland, ME. In June of 1826, a severe rainstorm tore through the White Mountains causing a landslide across the Saco River. A mass of soil and vegetation slid into the floor of the valley close to the house. Afterwards, Willey built a nearby stone shelter where the family could flee if a landslide again threatened the valley. When another violent rainstorm and landslide in Crawford Notch imminent, the Willeys left their home. A search party found the couple, two of their five children and two hired hands in the stone shelter. Ironically, the rockslide missed the house entirely. It was situated near a rock ledge that divided the major slide into two streams leaving it intact. 

Painting of the area near the Willey House by artist Charles Codman (Internet source)

News of the Willey family tragedy spread, attracting tourists to the region captured by the story and awed by the house. In 1835, Nathaniel Hawthorne wrote The Ambitious Guest, a short story about the tragedy. Artist Thomas Cole, founder of the Hudson River School of Painting, painted a landscape, Distant View of the Slide that Destroyed the Willey Family. This literature and art drew people to the White Mountains, exactly who the Willeys had hoped would come.

Some folks tried to capitalize on the new interest in the region by converting the Willey house into a hotel and offering tours. Though unconfirmed, some say this story is the origin of the phrase gives me the willies. Mount Willey is named for the family. The WIlley Trestle, also named for the family, is 94 feet high and 240 feet long, spanning the Willey Brook between Mt. Willey and Mt. Willard. The Willey House is now an interpretive center within Crawford Notch State Park.

Another tale of misfortune was that of Nancy Barton who, in the winter of 1778, succumbed to frostbite and hypothermia while in pursuit of her fiancé who had betrayed her and absconded with her life savings. According to Haunted Hikes of New Hampshire by Marianne O’Connor, 16-year old Nancy worked as a servant on Colonel Joseph Whipple's Jefferson, NH, farm. There she met and fell in love with farm worker Jim Swindell and shared with neighbors after he proposed that they planned to settle in Portsmouth, NH. Hindsight is always better as Nancy learned after she entrusted Jim with her savings, money earned working for Whipple.

Sign near site of Nancy Barton's death (Internet source)

Nancy left making arrangements to relocate to Portsmouth and Whipple and Jim conspired against her. Whipple supported the colonist fight for independence against the British in the Revolutionary War. The story goes he convinced Jim to steal her money and join the colonist army. Jim spent the money on a uniform. Learning her fiancé had done her wrong, Nancy set off in pursuit despite being warned of a dangerous trip in winter. She ignored cautions and left packing a few clothes and without food. Her trip through Crawford Notch was on a 30-mile snow-covered trail, Her clothing became soaked crossing a brook where she sat to rest. A search party followed her tracks hoping to find her alive, instead they found her sitting on a rock, frozen to death and she was buried by the brook. Hearing of her death, Jim was overcome with guilt and died in a psychiatric hospital. 

Hikers at Nancy Falls, circa 1929 (Internet source)

The Nancy Brook Scenic Area commemorates her death. For centuries, hikers traveling in this area of the White Mountain National Forest have reported hearing cries and shrieks of laughter. 

Maine Central 505 crash site
(Internet source)

On July 3, 1927, the Maine Central #505 which was built by the American Locomotive Company (ALCO) in 1910 was called in to help a freight train up the grade in Crawford Notch. Due to a faulty water glass and a leaking boiler, the 505 exploded.

The blast severely injured the foreman and engineer, Oscar W. Clemons and Robert B. Morse who died a day later leaving 15 children between them. Later investigation determined that the explosion was most likely caused by an overheated boiler.

Crawford Notch is a major mountain pass through the White Mountains in New Hampshire. In 1771, a Lancaster hunter, Timothy Nash discovered it while tracking a moose over Cherry Mountain. He noticed a gap in the distant mountains to the south and realized it was probably the route through the mountains mentioned in Native American lore. Loaded with provisions, Nash worked his way through the notch to Portsmouth to share his discovery with Governor John Wentworth. There's evidence that the indigenous people of this region, the Abenaki, used a similar path through the White Mountains. European settlers found it in the late 18th century.

Switching the engine for the return trip to North Conway

At the Breton Woods station, the engine was switched for the return trip to the North Conway station. At this point, passengers usually are asked to switch seats with those on the other side, this way everyone can see the sights. As this trip was far from being fully booked, this wasn't necessary.

The Mount Washington Hotel as seen from the train

The route passed the stunning Mount Washington Hotel built between 1900 and 1902 by Joseph Stickney at a cost of $1.7 million. Stickney, a native of Concord, NH, made a fortune before age 30 as a coal broker in Pennsylvania. He envisioned the hotel as a luxurious getaway for urban dwellers looking to escape the city. This landmark hotel, now owned by Omni, was one of New Hampshire’s Grand Hotels. In 1944, it hosted the Bretton Woods Conference, which established the International Monetary Fund and the World Bank. It's a member of Historic Hotels of America, the official program of the National Trust for Historic Preservation.

Frankenstein Trestle (Internet source)

Laying railroad track in this part of the White Mountains was no easy job.. We passed over the Frankenstein Trestle, an engineering feat that's become a popular spot for hikers to see. 

The Mountaineer train crossed it twice on the journey. At 80 feet and over 500 feet long, this elevated train bridge was a trip highlight, but not photographed on board. 

If you're curious, its name has nothing to do with the Mary Shelley novel of the same name, instead the trestle is named after artist, Godfrey Nicholas Frankenstein who spent time painting in the area in the 1890s. He knew and had painted a portrait of Dr. Samuel Bemis, a Boston dentist and early photographer of the White Mountains who also owned most of Crawford Notch and was at one time called Lord of the Valley. Bemis named a lake, mountain, brook, ridge and locality in the White Mountains after himself. In 1875, when the Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad built the railroad through Crawford Notch, the trestle was named for his artist friend, Frankenstein. Originally made of wrought iron, it was replaced with a steel version in 1893. It just goes to show that having well-placed and influential friends can mean you'll always be remembered.

Hanging out of the open car while going around a curve

Despite the weather, this was a wonderful excursion. While a return trip during the fall at the peak of foliage season would be wonderful, the cost would be higher, plus we have other travel plans in that timeframe. But, if you're in the White Mountains of NH then, check out the Conway Scenic Railroad to relax and take in the view.

This wasn't the only adventure we shared on our getaway weekend. There was one the day before. And, we dined at a wonderful restaurant as well. More on those in future posts. Thanks too for your well wishes left on the previous post.

FYI, many photos in this post (aside from the Internet borrowed ones) were taken with a new digital camera bought a few weeks ago for upcoming travel. It's a Panasonic Lumix introduced in January 2025 as a travel camera. The cost was quite reasonable and it features a very long zoom in such a small package. The cost has  increased in the few weeks since my purchase. Details to follow in a future post.