They All Lean

The Piazza del Duomo (Cathedral Square) in Pisa, Tuscany, Italy, is one of the most visually striking squares worldwide. Additionally, it has been recognized as one of the finest architectural complexes in the world. Seeing these structures on our October trip to Tuscany was to put it simply, amazing.

Piazza Duomo (Square of Miracles) consists of Baptistry, Cathedral and Campanile

The Piazza Duomo in Pisa, which translates to plaza of the cathedral, was renamed the Piazza dei Miracoli (Square of Miracles) by writer Gabriele d’Annunzio in 1910 because of the amazing architectural masterpieces within this square considered by many to be "miraculous" feats of design and construction. Since 1987. it has been a UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization) World Heritage Site. (Such landmarks and areas have legal protection under an international treaty for having cultural, historical, or scientific significance.)

More views of these amazing structures

There are three structures: Pisa Cathedral (the Duomo), Pisa Baptistery, and the free standing bell tower (campanile) more commonly known as the Leaning Tower of Pisa. There's also a cemetery, Campo Santo, which we did not explore on our tour.

The idea was to have an important religious centre symbolizing the main stages of life: birth with the Baptistery, life with the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta and its Tower, and death with the Cemetery.

The tower is famous worldwide, in large part, because of its slant. Even after being stabilized, the Tower of Pisa still leans. It's not the only leaning structure in this complex.

The weather wasn't perfect this day

The Tower of Pisa is known for its nearly four-degree lean, the result of an unstable foundation. It isn't the tallest bell tower and stands less than 184 feet from the ground on the low side and about 186 feet on the high side. The width of the walls at the base is 8 feet. I'm not sure how a tower is weighed, but this one is estimated to be 16,000 tons. The tower has 296 or 294 steps which can be climbed to reach the top (there is no elevator). 

There are seven giant bells on the top. Each has a name and corresponds to each of the seven musical notes. At first, the bells were operated by ropes which allowed them to ring by swinging. This process as discontinued since the possible vibrations may affect and cause the tower to lean more. Today, the bells are operated by electronic hammers. 

We did not walk up to the top of the tower

Construction to complete the tower took a really long time — nearly two centuries. The tower began to lean during construction in the 12th century, due to soft ground which could not support its weight. Construction continued and the builders tried to offset the mistake. By the time they reached the fourth story (out of a planned eight), they had to make the arches on the south side two inches taller than those on the north. The tower continued to lean. Unsure of what to do, construction was halted for almost a century.

The tower in relation to the cathedral, a short walk

By the time, the tower was completed in the 14th century, it leaned even more. By 1990, the tilt had reached 5.5 degrees. Between 1993 and 2001, the tower was stabilized by remedial work, which reduced the tilt to less than 4 degrees. In 2008, engineers declared that the tower had not only been stabilized, but had stopped moving for the first time in its history. They further stated that it would be stable for at least 200 years.

Ironically, Pisa gets its name from a Greek word meaning “marshy land” because of the terrain which is mainly made of clay. 

During WW II, the Allies suspected the Germans were using the tower as an observation post. A U.S. Army sergeant sent to confirm the presence of German troops in the tower was so impressed by the beauty of the cathedral and campanile that he refrained from ordering an artillery strike. All the structures were spared from possible destruction.

The baptistry is in the rear of the cathedral

The Pisa Baptistery of St. John is not only the largest baptistery in Italy but in the world. It was built to replace an older baptistry. Construction started in 1152 and when completed in 1363, it became the second building, in chronological order, in the Piazza dei Miracoli, near the Duomo di Pisa and the cathedral's free-standing campanile, the  Leaning Tower of Pisa. Like the cathedral and the campanile. the Baptistery is built of Carrara marble. Constructed on the same unstable ground as the tower and cathedral, the Baptistery leans 0.6 degrees toward the cathedral. 

Interior view of the baptistry ceiling

While the interior lacks any ornamental decoration, its acoustics are remarkable. Every half hour, the attendant on duty enters, stands next to the font, and sings a few notes that echo around the internal walls. Sounds reverberate long enough to the singer to form a 3-part harmony.

The very large baptismal font and pulpit

The focal point of the baptistry is the baptismal font built by Guido Bigarelli. . The bronze sculpture of St. John the Baptist at the center of the font was done by Italo Griselli. The famous pulpit was sculpted between 1255-1260 by Nicola Pisano. The scenes on the pulpit demonstrate his talents as the most important precursor of Italian Renaissance sculpture.

The long wall is part of the cathedral

The baptistry was positioned beside the cathedral because unbaptized people were not allowed inside the church until they had been baptized. In medieval times, this was done by full immersion, which is why the font is so large. The word "baptism" derives from the Greek word for immersion.

Another view of the cathedral

Pisa Cathedral (Cattedrale di Pisa) is one of the largest churches in Europe and it measures over 328 feet long by 229 feet wide. This medieval Catholic cathedral is dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary is the oldest of the three structures in the plaza followed by the Pisa Baptistry and the campanile. The cathedral, like the bell tower, is also sinking visibly into the ground.

A partial view of the cathedral roof

The dome of the cathedral has an octagonal shape. The cathedral is a notable example of Romanesque architecture. Construction which began in 1063 was completed in 1092 and was funded by spoils received fighting against the Muslims in Sicily. As one of the superpowers of the Mediterranean, Pisa needed a Duomo to reflect its prestige. Consecrated in 1118, it is the seat of the Archbishop of Pisa. Additional enlargements and a new facade were built in the 12th century. The roof was replaced after it was damaged by a fire in 1595.

Interior views of the cathedral

The interior architecture includes various stylistic elements: classical, Lombard-Emilian, Byzantine and Islamic, which reflects the international presence of Pisan merchants at the time. This style which has become known as "Pisan Romanesque."

Ceiling of the cathedral was truly amazing

After entering the cathedral, one of the most impressive sights is the gilded coffered ceiling. It displays complex geometric designs and religious symbols as well as the stem of the Medici family.

Souvenirs abounded in the local shops, but we abstained

There was no shortage of souvenirs in the Pisa shops. Anyone so inclined could bring home a leaning tower. We bypassed all of these.

After lunch, we indulged with a gelato treat. Although the weather was not the best on the day of our Pisa visit, seeing these magnificent structures was a definite highlight of this Tuscany trip, most likely a once-in-a lifetime visit.