Anniversary Adventures

We’ve been doing staycations (traveling in the U.S. and mainly New England) for day trips and overnight lodgings. Our recent anniversary getaway was less than a 2-hour drive from Nashua, NH, to White River Junction, VT, and Cornish, NH. (This post is a long one and highlights several stops as separate posts weren't needed for each one.)

Downtown White River Junction, VT (year unknown)

Ironically, we were in VT, 9 years ago when Hurricane Sandy battered the East coast in 2012. In 2021, Hurricane Henri threatened the Northeast and New England. Both times, the area we stayed was spared any repercussions. 

S. Main St, White River Junction, VT (circa 1940s)

The village of White River Junction derives its name from where the White River joins the Connecticut River on the borders of VT and NH. It was once a bustling railroad hub that contained over 14 railroad tracks in its boundaries. Today, the White River Junction Historic District consists of galleries and studios reflecting architecture from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The district was listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1980.

Rail lines in White River Junction, VT, circa mid-1850s

In 1847, the Vermont Central Railway and Connecticut River Railroad began building rail lines through White River Junction. This led to a thriving village revolved around the depot where the rail lines met. Five different railroad lines were laid through the village from 1847 to 1875 to create an eight-track crossing served by 50 passenger trains a day. 

In 1849, the first passenger station opened, a union station meaning that was used by every railroad. It was the first of three stations to be destroyed by fire in 1861, 1881, and 1911. Rail service declined in the 1960s due to the Interstate Highway System. The current railroad station is still in use, but passenger service is down to two daily trains on Amtrak’s Vermonter route.

Hotel Coolidge, S. Main St, White River Junction, VT

This trip, we stayed in the Hotel Coolidge on South Main Street. The 1926 Italianate-style hotel is one of the larger structures in the historic district as well as being the only lodging within the village of White River Junction today. Just like the train stations, it has a history of endurance after fires destroyed two earlier buildings in that location in 1878 and 1925.

Junction House, White River Junction, VT (year unknown)

In 1849, Samuel Nutt, a farmer, who owned land near the first railroad depot, sought to capitalize on the success of the Vermont Central Railroad. He purchased the Grafton House in Enfield, NH, and moved the clapboard structure to land he owned on the other side of the tracks from the depot. Renamed the Junction House, it provided meals and shelter for rail travelers and served as a local meeting place. In 1878, it suffered the fate of many wood-frame hotels of that era and burnt down after a kitchen fire spread throughout the building. 

Junction House & other buildings, White River Junction, VT

In 1879, it was replaced with a 200-guest room facility and continued operating as an important railroad hotel. Sold in 1901 for $50,000, the new owners expanded to 340 guest rooms. In 1919 the building again caught fire when an oil heater exploded on the second floor. All guests were evacuated, but the wood-frame hotel was a total loss. Rebuilding began within weeks. 

Hotel Coolidge circa 1925, White River Junction, VT

In 1924, owner Nathaniel Wheeler renamed the Junction House to the Hotel Coolidge in honor of his friend, John C. Coolidge, father of U.S. President Calvin Coolidge, and a VT resident. That structure, also destroyed by fire, was replaced by the current structure in 1925. Through the years, the building continued as a hotel with storefronts. Renovated in 1997, it remains the Hotel Coolidge nearly a century after its completion, standing for longer than its two predecessors combined, but with far fewer rooms. It's now a 30-room hotel and 26-bed youth hostel. 

When White River Junction was an active railroad center, the rebuilt Hotel Coolidge was the leading hotel. In 1927, room rates were $2.50 per night, $3 for a room with a bath. In May 1929,  two months after his second term ended, former President Coolidge spent a few nights at the hotel while on a fishing trip.

Current Hotel Coolidge exterior & lobby, White River Junction, VT

A stay at the Hotel Coolidge is quite different from staying in a modern hotel chain. It has some unusual quirks, like slanting floors, a sink in a sitting room, and rooms with a bathroom between the bedroom and sitting room. That's because, years ago, these may have been separate bedrooms with a shared bathroom.

Hallway, stairs, 2nd floor sitting area, Hotel Coolidge, White River Junction, VT

But these differences are what make it so unique with hallway tables, chairs and lamps and sitting areas at the end of the hallway directly near the stairs. Currently, hotel rooms are all on the second floor, compared to years ago. All rooms have a small fridge, no microwave or coffee maker, unlike many current hotel/motels. However, free hot coffee was available in the lobby in the early morning and throughout the day.

The smallish Hotel Coolidge elevator

The hotel's elevator is very small and definitely not anyone feeling claustrophobic. That's because it accommodates 2 people with luggage. It was also very quiet, and very slow exactly as the posted sign indicated. 

Boston & Maine Locomotive #494, circa 1892

Remnants of the village's railroad history remain. In a pavilion in front of the RR depot, Boston & Maine R.R. locomotive #494 and a caboose are on display. Both have NH connections. The coal-fired engine was built in 1892 by the Manchester Locomotive Works. The 33-feet long caboose was built in 1921 by the Laconia Car Company. The engine remained in use until 1938 and was displayed at the 1939 World’s Fair in Queens, NY. In 1957, after it was donated to the town of Hartford, VT, it was restored and placed on display in White River Junction with the caboose.

Former Post Office is the Center for Cartoon Studies, White River Junction, VT

A prominent building directly across from the hotel is the U.S. Post Office built in 1934 as a Works Progress Administration (WPA) project and succeeding earlier ones in 1849 and 1890. This Neo-Classical Revival-style brick building retains the inscription United States Post Office on the front and was at various times, a post office, Vermont District Court and a privately owned office building. Today, it's home to the Center for Cartoon Studies, a 2-year art school focusing on sequential art, such as found in comic books and comic strips.

Gates Hotel Annex, White River Junction, VT

Sometime after 1950, the above lettering was painted on the walls of this building, which may have been a hotel earlier, but no information was located. One sign states Room with Bath with an arrow. The other sign advertises Gates Hotel Annex, Newly Furnished, Hot and Cold Water, $1.00. The building is considered a landmark in the village and houses a bar on the lower level.

Former J.J. Newberry's now  houses Tuckerbox Restaurant

By 1938, the building at the intersection of North and South Main Streets was renovated for J.J. Newberry Stores. Renamed Newberry Market, today, the site is occupied by Tuckerbox. This popular village eatery features Turkish and Mediterranean cuisine and is the only one of three downtown eateries open daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner. We dined here several times as the other two restaurants were open limited hours, mainly due to being short-staffed.

1890 Gates Block, White River Junction, VT

It's not only the Hotel Coolidge, but many other buildings in the center of White River Junction that have survived over the years. One prominent structure is the large 1890 Gates Block named after George W. Gates, who not only owned most of the land now in the historic district, but was prominent in the early development and growth of the village. 

Vermont Salvage Company, White River Junction, VT

A visit to White River Junction always should include a stop at the Vermont Salvage Exchange on Gates Street. This was our second stop in nine years (since 2012) and the building has remained the same as then. We even suspected some of the same items were inside. 

The business is housed in an Italianate Revival structure built on land formerly leased from the Vermont Central Railroad. The building was formerly home to the Cross-Abbott Company, a wholesale grocery business founded by Charles Cross and Charles Abbott in 1894. By 1903, it was one 13 prosperous wholesale businesses. When Cross-Abbott moved out in the mid-1950s, another wholesale distribution company, White River Paper Company occupied the building until 1989 when Vermont Salvage started in business there.

All that's sold here is architectural salvage which makes Vermont Salvage is a very unique place to visit. There's no knick-knacks, yard sale or flea-market items, just lots and lots of stuff taken from old homes and buildings.

Vermont Salvage is a haven for architectural salvage of all types

Today, this location is considered by many as New England's premier architectural salvage company. Within its two floors, it features everything from antique and historic pieces, wrought iron fencing, sinks and tubs, columns, mantelpieces, doors and even stained glass windows.

While we stayed in VT, we spent time in nearby Cornish, NH, where a highlight of our visit was a first-time meetup with fellow NH blogger, Marcia, and her husband, Dan. We enjoyed a get together with wonderful food and good conversation. Marcia and Dan graciously provided a tour of their home and barn. (Whoops, no photos taken.)

Our anniversary day started with Saturday morning breakfast at the Four Aces Diner in West Lebanon, NH, which bills itself as Home of the All American Retro Brunch 50's Diner. This is a very popular eatery as witnessed by the packed parking lot, luckily we did not wait long for a booth, counter seating was also an option.  The blueberry pancakes were delicious, according to Grenville, and I agreed this choice was better that mine, a Cinnabon® roll pancake. While tasty, they didn't compare to one of those decadent cinnamon rolls. 

Transportation from parking area to Cornish, NH, fair grounds

After breakfast, we spent nearly the entire day at the Cornish Fair. Billed as a Family-Friendly, Country, Agricultural Fair, it reminded us of the similar ones we had attended when living on the VA eastern shore, which was largely an agricultural area.

The heat took its toll on these cows, including this exhausted young'un

There was an abundance of local participants and fair goers despite the very warm and humid Saturday we attended. Last year's fair had been cancelled due to the pandemic. It was evident that this year's event was more early attended because of that fact.

Vintage tractors displayed at Cornish, NH, Fair

Anyone who has ever been to an agricultural fair knows that it's not be complete without displays of tractors. There's always plenty of all makes, models and ages and always a lot of green John Deere models.

Cornish, NH, Fair indoor exhibits

Indoor exhibits included home grown veggies and canned goods, along with crafts, photography, quilts, and baked goods (no sampling here).

Rides and stage performances at Cornish Fair

One thing we do not enjoy at fairs are the rides, so we were content to watch others enjoying these high flying ones. But, we did enjoy these performers at an outdoors pavilion.

Our anniversary ended with cheesecake and white wine enjoyed in our VT hotel room. The wine was brought along on the trip and the dessert was purchased at a supermarket. It had been a long and very warm hot day outdoors and after dinner on the way back from the fair, we opted for an intimate dessert celebration.

WAIT, this isn't the end of our anniversary adventures as there's more to come, but not in this post (thankfully). A future post will detail our visit to the only National Historic Park in NH.