A Ride Up High

View of Montecatini Alto from Montecatini Terme

Many fellow bloggers commented that they liked this image in a previous post. It shows a vintage carousel in the Tuscan spa town Montecatini Terme with the hilltop town of Montecatini Alto in the background.

Montecatini Alto, which translates to Montecatini high, dates to medieval times, even before the existence of Montecatini Terme. This little town was a fortress due to its strategic position, the land below was marshland which made it difficult to invade.

Funicolare di Montecatini

The most enjoyable way to reach the medieval village of Montecatini Alto is by taking a round trip ride on the Montecatini Funicular, known in Italian as the Funicolare di Montecatini. A one-way trip is just under 9 minutes riding on two distinctive red trains, Gigio and Gigia, once called Number 1 and Number 2.

Gigia and Gigio trains

These are now the oldest cable railway funicular cars in operation throughout Italy. The red cars run throughout the day ascending and descending the steep hill to Montecatini Alto every half hour from 9:30 am to 12 pm with a break between 1 and 2:30 pm. A round trip ticket is the equivalent of $7.50 in U.S. dollars.

A funicular is a type of cable railway system that connects points along a railway track laid on a steep slope. The cable car runs on the cog and wheel principal. This system is characterized by two counterbalanced carriages permanently attached to opposite ends of a haulage cable, which is looped over a pulley at the upper end of the track.

Passengers wave to those on the opposite car when passing

Work on the funicular that connects the towns of Montecatini Terme and Montecatini Alto began in March 1897 and was completed the following year. Its inauguration in June 1898 was attended by the Italian composer Giuseppe Verdi. It has been modernized over the years, but the cars have not been modified. Riding up on either of the red cars, the atmosphere is much the same as years ago with wooden benches and external balconies with space to stand and enjoy wonderful panoramic views which we did.

View of the track from the top station

In 1921, the original steam system was replaced with an electrically driven winch, the rest of the original equipment remains receiving maintenance adjustments. The two red trains travel a distance of 1077 meter (0.669 mile) reaching a maximum slope of 38.5% (an average slope is 20.5%). 

Originally, the funicular used a large steam boiler located downstream replaced by an electric motor drive in 1921. Over the years, there have been some interruptions to service. It ran safely until September 1944, when retreating soldiers set off explosives damaging parts of the tracks halting service until 1949. In 1977, technical adjustments were needed and it closed until 1982. Due to the intervention of regional government, cars were restored and the latest equipment was installed.

Ticket office for the 1898 Funicolare

Riding on the funicalare isn't the only way to reach Montecatini Alto. There's a pedestrian walking path, known as the Corta, a 30-45 minute walk depending on the pace with some steep areas. There's also a bus and motorist route.

Part of original wall around Montecatini Alto (Internet source)

At one time, Montecatini Alto had a protective wall with 25 portas or doors. The doors were actually towers, some still remain. Like Montecatini Terme, the town has connections with the powerful Florentine Medici. In 1554, Cosimo dei Medici almost destroyed it, burning down its archives and eliminating its earliest history.

The landscape is dominated by the Tower of Ugolino, dedicated to Ugolino della Gherardesca, Count of Donoratico, an Italian nobleman, politician and naval commander. 

Torre dell’Orologio (clock tower), Montecatini Alto

The tower, known as the Torre dell’Orologio (clock tower), remains from the ancient fortification. The clock dates to the 1500s and was modernized in the 1700s with clock hands. The roman dial and numerals followed in 1844. You might wonder why the clock has 6 Roman numerals not 12. This is an example of an Italian clock in which time was divided into 6 hours repeated 4 times. This system, devised by the church in the 13th century, remained in effect until the Napoleonic era. Not many clocks of this type remain; there are 25 in Tuscany.

Teatro dei Risorti, Montecatino Alto

One of the most unique buildings here is the Teatro dei Risorti, an extension of a 14th-century building (Loggia del Parlascio) where assemblies and markets were held. During the 1950s, it became a cinema, replacing the backdrop with a screen painted white. It is one of the oldest theatre spaces in the Italian region of Tuscany.

Piazza Giusti, Montecatino Alto

The small town square is filled with restaurants. In the center is Piazza Giusti dedicated to Giuseppe Giusti, a northern Italian poet and satirist, who lived there for years. Restaurants and bars overlook this area, still covered with stone paving.

Dining outdoors in Montecatini Alto

After a short exploration in the town, ourselves and travel companions (Judy and Sandy) enjoyed a wonderful lunch on the main square. (To answer David G's question about lunch, Patrick had wild boar ravioli; my dish was spinach and ricotta in freshly made cannelloni pasta. Our friends enjoyed a homemade pasta dish as well.)

We enjoyed some final views in Montecatini Alto before heading back to the funicalore for our return trip.

A view of Montecatini Terme from Montecatini Alto.

If you are ever in this area, do treat yourself to a ride on these trains and a visit to this hilltop town. The views alone were worth the ride. The small town was wonderful to explore in the short time we had before lunch. 

Friday Funnies

Sometimes, it seems that parking lines are merely a suggestion to some drivers. This driver almost got it right.

This driver almost got it right.

After our travels, we're spent the past couple of weeks close to home catching up and mostly recuperating from colds. We're both recovered and have a couple of weekend events planned. The weather in Nashua, NH, has been more Indian summer than fall-like with unseasonably warm days in the mid-70s part of the week and in the 60s other days. 

There's still colorful foliage here. This week we enjoyed a walk in nearby Mine Falls Park. Here's a look at some of the colors still remaining, hopefully for a longer and another walk.

Enjoy Your Weekend, Everyone

We're seeing Jersey Boys in Manchester, NH, this weekend

Where We Started . . .

Our Tuscany tour was based in Montecatini Terme, known years ago as one the most glamorous destinations in Italy, it was a favorite of the rich and famous. With its Belle Époque architecture, curative spas, grand hotels and celebrity history, the town was Italy’s best-known spa town. It remains a destination for many travelers.

Our Fellow Tuscany Travelers

The travel group consisted of about 40, all from the U.S. including 8 from NH. We stayed in the centrally located Grand Francia & Quirnale Hotel for the entire tour. Staying in a single hotel and making day trips was very convenient. We only had to unpack once, unlike our 2023 UK trip when we moved to a different hotel every 1-2 nights in Ireland.

Grand Francia & Quirnale Hotel

This hotel dates to the early 1900s when a French family of hoteliers built the Hotel de France in the center of Montecatini. In 1920, the hotel was acquired by the Giusfredi family still managing the hotel after four generations. Even though it has a small number of rooms (112), the hotel is called a grand hotel on its website.

"Grand" precedes the names of many Montecatini Terme hotels derived from "grandeur" in style and not grand in size. Started in Europe, the term described a hotel with some form of traditional architectural style. In the mid-19th century, the term "grand hotel" described a place to stay and dine, enjoy social activities, and which offered personal services like laundry and cleaning. Horses were stabled and later cars were parked. European grand hotels differ from a U.S. grand hotel, more often described by the number of rooms, which often can lack "grandeur." 

Collette Tours provided a comfortable motor couch for daily excursions

This tour bus was the transport used on our travels. As with the previous UK tour with RI-based Collette tours there was a single driver, Pasquale, as well as a tour director, Simone, for the entire trip . Both men were knowledgeable, professional and helpful, particularly when one group member became ill.

What's Special About Montecatini Terme?

This town in the province of Pistoia, in the Italian region of Tuscany has been famous for its healing waters since Roman times. Originally, the town was named Bagni di Montecatini, the name of the thermal springs in Montecatini, which translates to "Baths of Montecatini." In 1928, the name was changed to Montecatini Terme. The Italian word "terme" translates to thermal baths, spa or hot springs. 

Montecatini Terme is surrounded by the grand architectural designs of its thermal baths. It features wide tree-lined boulevards lined with historic hotels. The town is known for its Art Nouveau and neo-Gothic architecture, and is officially one of the Great spa towns of Europe recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2021.

Fontana Guidotti in central Piazza del Popolo, Montecatini Terme

Fontana Guidotti is located in the central Piazza del Popolo. Designed by Pistoia sculptor Antonio Guidotti, the fountain was designed and constructed by architect Raffaello Brizzi in 1926 with bronze ornaments designed by Guidotti. It replaced a covered outdoor space (loggia) that had hosted markets and agricultural fairs since 1834. The fountain, made of travertine and bronze, is comprised of a large circular basin topped by putti (figures in art that depict chubby, winged male children) holding four horns from which water jets emerge, feeding the basin.

Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, Montecatini Terme

The main square, Piazza del Popolo is also dominated by the neoclassical Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta. Built between 1953 and 1958, it replaced a neoclassical church that dated to 1833 and was destroyed. In 1988, Pope John Paul II proclaimed this church a minor basilica. (Basilicas are either major basilicas, of which there are four, all in the Diocese of Rome, or minor basilicas, of which there over 1,800 worldwide.) 

As mentioned earlier, this town became famous for its thermal springs; 11 in the area around the town of which six have been used for therapeutic qualities. The thermal hot springs have made the town a destination for wellness, relaxation, even medical treatment since the early 20th century. Years ago, spas were open year-round, but there's been a slow decline in the fashion for visiting a spa, ones remaining are seasonal. On a walking tour we saw two spas: Terme Excelsior and Terme Tettuccio, only one remains open.

Shuttered Terme Excelsior on Viale Verdi 

The Terme Excelsior thermal baths are housed in a beautiful building from the early 20th century located on Viale Verdi, the promenade which connects the two spas. Constructed in 1906 and designed by architect Giulio Bernardini, it was originally built to house the Excelsior municipal casino and concert café. The building was modified in 1915 as the new Excelsior Spa Treatment; treatments were carried out year-round. About 1970, the upper part of the building was demolished preserving the porch. It's been shuttered and permanently closed for years and only seen from the street.

Terme Tettuccio thermal complex

The grand and palatial Art Nouveau Terme Tettuccio complex is located in the Parco delle Terme (park of the baths). Instead of baths or massages, guests come to drink the mineral waters from four historic springs: Tettuccio, Regina, Leopoldine and Rinfresco. Characterized by sulfate-bicarbonate-sodium, the thermal waters are used for diseases of the digestive system as well as for well-being treatments.

Considered the symbol of the city and its glorious past, the Terme Tettuccio, is the oldest establishment of the baths. The origins of the building date back to 1370, when it consisted only of a canopy (tettuccio) which protected the spring. It's come a long way since. After undergoing several structural changes, it assumed its current form in 1919 when Italian architect Ugo Giovannozzi, inspired by late Renaissance models, began a renovation. The grand pavilion was inspired by the great Roman baths. In addition to being a thermal spa, Tettuccio Terme served as a cultural center and meeting place for many prominent figures in music, art, diplomacy, and politics.

Terme Tettuccio therapeutic drinking waters

Treatments are based on drinking thermal water as a curative drink for various conditions: constipation, high cholesterol, stomach and intestine problems. A prescription is needed as each water has unique therapeutic characteristics. The recommended 12-day drinking cure can be prescribed by a spa doctor. Our tour guide explained that some treatments had a laxative effect, which explained why the complex has hundreds of toilet facilities, over 800 total.

Entering the structure, there are two courtyards. A long portico joins them and connects the entire building, decorated with panels arranged above marble bases.

The complex is surrounded by a large park designed to complement the therapeutic landscape of the facility. Terme Tettuccio is open from May to October for treatments Other parts of the year it's a concert venue and, of course, open for tours during which you can sample the mineral waters..

Famous people who have visited the spas in Montecatini Terme include Giuseppe Verdi, Giacomo Puccini, Pietro Mascagni and Gioacchino Rossini., Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, Coco Chanel, Christian Dior and Arnold Schwarzenegger. 

Bronze sculpture of composer Giacomo Puccini

Puccini regarded as the greatest and most successful proponent of Italian opera after Verdi, is represented in this bronze statue shown seated on a bench enjoying his cigar under the shade of the trees.. Montecatini is where Verdi, a frequent visitor to the spa town, reportedly composed part of the famous opera La Boheme. 

Plaques on the Montecatini Terme Walk of Fame; Sofia was Loren's birthname

Hollywood isn't the only place with a Walk of Fame as Montecatini has its own version on Viale Verdi where these round bronze plaques display the names of famous visitors. Film stars from bygone eras, fashion designers, royalty, sports figures and others are just some of over 200 personalities who made Montecatini a very fashionable locale in the 50s and 60s.

Town Hall in Montecatini Terme

The Town Hall built is located to the right of Viale Verdi and was built on the site of the Grand Ducal Stables to provide the town with a civic center appropriate to the size and role it had assumed. 

Inspired by Renaissance palaces, elegant and rich in details, it was designed by Montecatini architect Raffaello Brizzi. Due to WWI, construction took from 1913 to 1919. Galileo Chini, an an Italian decorator, designer, painter and potter had been commissioned to design the skylight above the grand staircase. Unfortunately, the building is under renovation and closed to tours.

Teatro Kursaal in Montecatini Terme now

This façade is all that remains of the Teatro Kursaal a large complex that was once central to Montecatini Terme during its years of prosperity. Opened in 1907, the Kursaal was for decades the heart of the city's social, artistic and cultural life, hosting opera, operetta and highly popular shows. The complex included a cinema, dance hall and huge game room.

Teatro Kursaal in Montecatini Terme, vintage (online source)

Visitors from all over Italy and beyond enjoyed the facilities as it became a symbol of elegance and entertainment. In the 1920s, the building experienced a decline in the post-war period. The Kursaal was a symbol of Montecatini until the 1980s, when it fell into decay and was put up for sale failing a buyer that understood the complex was central to the prosperity of the town. It was abandoned and empty for years. At the start of the 21st century, the site was developed as a commercial center retaining only the front section of the original building.

Shuttered Grand Hotel & La Pace Hotel

The Grand Hotel & La Pace Hotel was founded in 1870 as a way to give “La Pace” (peace) during a time split by profound social and economic changes, culminating in 1866 with the peace between Italy and Austria. The hotel’s success came at the beginning of the 20th century, when the an ambitious renovation project was launched to transform it into a luxury hotel with rooms and halls designed by the Art Nouveau master Galileo Chini. Famous names that passed through included Giacomo Puccini, Pietro Mascagni, Trilussa, Marie Curie, Guglielmo Marconi, Spencer Tracy, Gary Cooper and Katherine Hepburn. In 1957, fashion designer Christian Dior died here (heart failure). The hotel is currently closed.

Vintage carousel in downtown Montecatini Terme

This vintage carousel in Montecatini Terme is a treasured local landmark. It dates back to the late 19th century and is intertwined with the town's history as a spa destination. The carousel was installed to provide a whimsical element to the spa treatments, thermal baths and elegant promenades of the era. It continues to be a favorite attraction for tourists and locals, riding on beautifully carved wooden animals, not just horses, with music and vibrant colors capturing the spirit of a bygone era. 

The hilltop town of Montecatini Alto

Looking beyond the carousel, you can see the hills of Montecatini Alto (one of the most beautiful villages in Italy) in the background. The town can also be reached by traveling on a 19th-century red funicular railway as we did — subject of a future post.

Friday Funnies

Tuscany, a region in central Italy, has long been known for its landscapes, history, artistic legacy and foods. It's become one of the most popular destinations for travelers, including ourselves.

We enjoyed much of these things during our recent trip, including this food group.

Freshly-made pizza could be found everywhere. Every street had one (or more) storefronts selling various types. We enjoyed a slice several times, usually followed by a gelato treat.

Despite so many choices for freshly-made pizza, here's⬆︎what was in a local supermarket.

Fries (and hamburgers) were not only on many menus, but also in the supermarket.

Just like in a U.S. supermarket, there were rows of these products, so not all Italians make their own pasta and sauce.

Here's some good stuff, vino, cheese and fresh breads  — who needs anything more ?

Enjoy Your Weekend, Everyone

We're still in catching-up mode

We're Back Home

Aboard SwissAir from Zurich-Boston

Traveling to places new is fun and very exciting for the most part, even with the unexpected at times. Our recent trip to Tuscany covered many of these points. 

Despite a damaged suitcase, rainy days, crowded sites and a cancelled flight, we enjoyed our belated anniversary trip and, as we all know, things happen. Thanks for your advance well wishes.

While traveling, we kept current on damages and deaths caused by dual hurricanes and tornadoes in the U.S. The devastation was staggering to see even from such a distance away. We hope that fellow bloggers, who were in harm's way, are now safe. 

Always pack for the weather

While there were no hurricanes, we had downpours on several days as the Tuscan region was having a very wet October. Rain gear and umbrellas came in handy very often on our day travels. The tour guide told us that September, had been very sunny and warm by comparison.

Unlike our UK tour last fall, we stayed in one hotel and traveled daily by tour bus to visit locales anywhere from an 60 to 90 minutes away. (Future posts will present more info on these locations.) 

There were a number of highlights, one of the most memorable was seeing Florence Cathedral. Formally the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the Flower, it was started in 1296 in the Gothic style and was structurally completed by 1436.

Florence Cathedral and duomo

The Florence cathedral is the fourth largest in the world after Saint Peter's (Rome), Saint Paul's (London), and the Duomo in Milan (Italy). This structure was built to serve as a monument to the wealth and prestige of Florence. It was originally envisioned to be the largest cathedral in Italy and remains one of the largest in the world. Its creation came about from the need to compete with other Italian monuments, such as the Pisa Cathedral and its iconic tower.

Piazza dei Miracoli (formerly Piazza del Duomo) in Pisa dates back to 1064

The Leaning Tower of Pisa is still leaning, but did you know that the cathedral and Pisa Baptistry are too; however, the bell tower has the most dramatic lean. The Tower of Pisa is the freestanding bell tower (campanile) of Pisa Cathedral. All three are in the Piazza dei Miracoli (Square of Miracles), formally the Piazza del Duomo (Cathedral Square). The name change occurred in the early 20th century after Italian writer and poet Gabriele d'Annunzio described the space as a meadow of miracles (prato dei Miracoli) for the beauty of its architecture. In 1987, the square was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The top of the Leaning Tower is accessed by 294 steps

The Leaning Tower is the third oldest building on Piazza dei Miracoli after the Pisa Cathedral and Baptistery (the largest baptistery in Italy). There's an admission fee and 30-minute time limit to walk up and back down the 294 tower staircase and usually a waiting line as well. We opted out of this experience.

Terme Tettuccio spa in Montecatini  built from 1779-81 was restructured in 1928

Montecatini Terme is a spa town renowned for its healing natural waters since Roman times, and there are claims that the waters were used for their healing properties even earlier. The healing consists of drinking thermal waters for a variety of different ailments from stomach problems to diseases of the digestive system. The Italian composers Giacomo Puccini and Giuseppe Verdi were fans of the spa cure.

Cost of a round trip on the funicular was 7 euros (about $7.63 in U.S. dollars)

Since 1898, the Montecatini Terme Funicular has been transporting visitors on a less than 10 minute, 4.5 mile ride to the medieval village of Montecatini Alta. While the funicular has been modernized over the years, the two red carriages, called Gigio and Gigi have not been modified. Funicular derives from the Latin word funiculus, which translates to rope which is what the cables were made from years ago.

Waiting for a flight is tiresome and frustrating; safe travel is wonderful

Our arrival back in NH was delayed a full day because of a much-delayed then flight cancellation and a flight re-routing from the Florence to Bologna airport. On the plus side, SwissAir provided a meal voucher, overnight accommodations, transport to a hotel then to Bologna Airport. (A story for a future post.)

Last trip

This week will be a catch-up one for matters here at home, most importantly recovering from colds (that's all, we tested), filing an insurance claim for a damaged suitcase and other stuff. The photo at left was taken after our flight from Zurich landed in Florence. We bought duct tape in an Italian variety store, Lovely, directly across the street from a 1 Euro store (like a Dollar Store) in Montecatini. We taped all around the rip with black tape, no it wasn't pretty, but functional. Like ourselves, the luggage and its contents arrived back safely in the U.S.

My advance apologies for not having enough time to read and comment on your recent posts. I hope to catch up by next week.

Friday Funnies

Your guess is as good as mine as to why these garments were curbside on a Nashua, NH, street a couple of weeks ago. There was no one around when the photo was taken.

Your caption welcome

My first thoughts for a caption were — street clothes or curbside garb, nothing else came to mind. Perhaps, some else has a more creative take. as always, feel free to post a comment.

By the time this FF is posted, we'll be somewhere in the Tuscan region of Italy. Our thanks for your safe travel wishes earlier. Although, we will be far from home, our thoughts remain with many in the U.S. including fellow bloggers.

Enjoy Your Weekend, Everyone

Irregular blog posts will resume when we return

The Month Just Ended

September has gone and October arrived with the realization of the widespread devastation and loss of life across the Southeast from Hurricane Helene, which is still ongoing.

Perhaps, like ourselves, some of you, have family members in the affected states. Ours in FL and GA. Thankfully, aside from some downed trees and a lot of water, they escaped without physical injury or property damage. 

Unfortunately, the same cannot be said for so many others, which includes fellow bloggers, who if having escaped damage or injury, can be dealing with various after-effects.

We've watched videos of the destruction, especially in hard hit NC; it's been mind numbing.

Our excitement about traveling abroad has been curtailed by this event. While we can't help physically, financial support is doable — many agencies need money to help those who have lost so much, including their homes and belongings.

As a rule, I refrain from posting on current issues that can be hot buttons for many. However, this is not one of those and it was difficult to ignore these past few days. Any financial donation is a personal matter for anyone to decide what's best. Here's a few support organizations: Red Cross, All Hands and hearts, Americares, Direct relief, World Central Kitchen, Mutual Aid Disaster Relief, there are many others as well.

To any fellow bloggers living in the hardest hit states of FL, GA, SC, NC, TN and VA or if you have family members there, we hope that you  will receive the support needed from many others who care.

This new month marks a US presidential milestone as former President Jimmy Carter celebrates his 100th birthday and is now the longest living president in history. Other long-life presidents and the year and age they died: George Bush in 2028 at 94, Gerald Ford in 2006 at 93 and Ronald Reagan in 2004 at 93.

(Comments are on, but no need to leave one.)

Friday Funnies

Thanks to those who commented on my previous post about candy and other items being secured with locks in the CVS store in Nashua, NH. This is the only store I have seen them, most likely there are others. Like many others who commented we don't shop much n person aside from the CVS, grocery store, L.L. Bean outlet or wine store. Like so many, we started shopping online more often, during and continuing after the pandemic.

Now, for this week's Friday Funnies, which are all auto-related.

I've heard about a top dog, but how about this very top car.

The top ramp car must tilt down to load and unload this vehicle. 

No guessing about the owner's choice of license plate for this car. Although, most avocados I've seen have been a darker shade of green vs. yellow.

This car owner had all his/her ducks and other animals lined in a dashboard row. It looked like the space was well-filled up.

Next week starts a new month. We're leaving on a long-distance adventure that starts mid-week for a destination of Tuscany, Italy, a belated 25th anniversary gift from us to us. We'll be traveling abroad for 9 days. I've scheduled a couple of posts for that timeframe.

Enjoy Your Weekend, Everyone

Some of our weekend will be spent packing