We Ate at a Castle

Not just any castle, mind you, but one that's generally recognized as the first U.S. fast-food burger chain. Maybe some folks reading this post already know the answer.
If not, the answer may surprise you, unless you knew the answer — White Castle.

If you knew that, did you also know that this regional hamburger chain differs from other burger chains because, unlike its burger competitors, White Castle is not a franchise operation. Since it started in 1921, this burger joint has always been a privately-owned company and remains so to this day. 

First NJ White Castle, July 1930

White Castle is beloved by burger aficionados for its menu staple of small square burgers referred to as “Sliders®.” This signature burger is made with 100% beef, steam grilled on a bed of onions, and served with a slice of pickle on a signature bun. The burgers are not cooked directly over heat.

There are over 420 White Castle outlets in the states of Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, New Jersey, Nevada, New York, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Tennessee, Wisconsin. The most are in Ohio, Indiana and Illinois; fewest are in Nevada, Pennsylvania and Wisconsin.

As NJ natives, we've previously enjoyed these burgers. Sadly, we now live in New England where there are no White Castles. 

Grenville needed a "fix." 

Luckily, there are some White Castles in the metro NY-NJ area, even luckier, we were in NJ visiting family for the Easter holiday. There was one within 5 minutes of our South Plainfield, NJ hotel. Another was 20 minutes away in Greenbrook, NJ. We didn't visit both locations. The design has changed from the 1930s one above to this one (left). So have prices and a slider that was 5 cents in the 1920s was 72 cents plus tax.  

 The
We happily downed several sliders each — Did I mention these are small burgers? Our "combos" came with a drink and fries. The fries were not as good as the burgers, so we'll skip them next time. Grenville ordered the bacon burger and my choice was the original cheeseburger. We'll also skip the bacon burger, based on Grenville's taste test. If you go to a White Castle, try the tried and true burgers or cheeseburger sliders. You won't go wrong.

Originally, burgers were sold in a paper bag after being individually put in a cardboard box (see below). Buying them this way, you got "a sack of sliders." Purchase options now include Castle Packs of 7, 8 or 9, buy'em® by the sack® of 10, Crave Case® of 30, or a Crave Crate® of 100 burgers for seriously addicted aficionados. 

Walter Anderson and Edgar Waldo “Billy” Ingram started White Castle with $700 in 1921. It was incorporated in 1924 as the White Castle System of Eating Houses Corporation. The original White Castle was on the corner of First and Main Street in Wichita, KS and is long gone.

Walter Anderson & Billy Ingram and early White Castles

A 1904 novel, The Jungle, an expose by American novelist Upton Sinclair had publicized unsanitary conditions of the U.S meat-packing industry in Chicago and other cities. Some considered the book mostly a work of fiction, but it sparked food safety legislation. The U.S. Food and Drug Act was passed in 1906 largely due to public response.

Because of Upton's novel, Anderson and Ingram wanted to change the public's perception of their new industry which had beef as the main ingredient. The two men wanted the restaurants they opened, small white buildings with stainless steel interiors, to present a sense of cleanliness. Employees dressed in uniforms with no facial or long hair, most were male back then. The same type of building existed from 1924 to 1929.

In 1933, Anderson sold his half of the business to Ingram who then closed restaurants in the smallest profit markets, including those in Wichita and Omaha, NE. He also relocated the corporate headquarters to Columbus, OH. Not surprisingly that state now has the largest number of White Castles. Yet, since 1938 there hasn't a single WC in the entire state of Kansas, where it all began. But KS folks can satisfy their burger fix in neighboring Missouri which has over 50 of them.

Since McDonald's and Burger King started up much later, there was no fast burger food when White Castle began. The company established centrally-located bakeries, meat supply plants and warehouses to self-supply the business. In 1932, Ingram set up a subsidiary to produce the iconic paper hats that employees wore, as well as other paper products used in the restaurant from packaging to serving.

White Castle initiated chain-wide standardized methods of operation to ensure that customers would receive the same product and service in every location.  The White Castle Pledge is: Serving the finest products, for the least cost, in the cleanest surroundings, with the most courteous personnel. 

Anderson is credited with inventing the hamburger bun, kitchen assembly line and the cook as a replaceable technician. In 1934, he formed a White Castle subsidiary, Porcelain Steel Buildings (PSB) Co. to manufacture portable restaurant buildings that could be moved for standardization.

In the beginning, burgers were prepared using the White Castle System, so that cooks at any location could produce nearly-identical small square burgers. Burgers were cooked according to a specific recipe: ground beef balls were placed on a hot grill and topped with tiny shredded onions, then burgers were flipped and squashed into a patty. The bottom bun was placed on top, and a pickle and the top bun were added.

That formula existed until 1949, when the five-hole hamburger patty debuted. The recipe was changed to reduce long lines of waiting customers. These five-hole burgers were steamed on a bed of shredded onions. They not only cooked faster, but this process eliminated flipping and the burgers were more flavorful. 

When the first White Castle in the far western U.S. opened in Nevada on the Las Vegas strip in 2015, it marked the company's first expansion into a new state in 56 years. Demand was so great that the restaurant closed for 2 hours to restock and sold 4,000 sliders per hour in its first 12 hours, reportedly the largest demand in its 94-year history.

Supermarket purchase to our freezer

Since 1977, a subsidiary company, White Castle Distributing, Inc., has been marketing products in supermarkets nationwide including hamburgers, cheeseburgers, breakfast burgers, veggie burgers, and black bean burgers. Availability varies by supermarket chain and, once again, Grenville luckily found them in the frozen food section of a local supermarket, so can have his "fix" at home. 

Takeout White Castle being enjoyed at family dining table in 1940s

The Ingram family’s decision not to franchise or take on debt has kept the chain relatively small compared to other fast food companies. For example, there’s nearly 40,000 McDonald’s locations worldwide; 14,000 in the U.S. alone. 

More White Castle facts . . .

• Pioneered first use of restaurant newspaper coupons which ran in a St Louis, MO, paper in June 1932. A carryout order of 5 burgers for 10 cents was a great deal during the depression as burgers were normally 5 cents each. 
• First fast-food restaurant to sell over 1 billion burgers, reaching that milestone in 1961 ahead of competitors, but WC started earlier.
• Credited with starting National Hamburger Month in 1992. Annually every May, burger promotions now tempt burger fans.

Photo Credits: Vintage b&w photos in this post were displayed inside a White Castle in South Plainfield, NJ. Very few photos had detailed captions. Seeing them was a step-back-in-time.

A 94th in NJ

We took our first extended road 🚗 trip last week. We've been on road trips the past several months, but all of these have been within New England. This trip was to our native NJ for a long overdue (18 months) visit with family and friends.

But, the main purpose besides visits, was to celebrate a very special  94th birthday of our friend, Margaret. She and her late husband, Edward, were the nicest neighbors who lived across the street from my parent's and my childhood home. Margaret still lives there, alone now since Edward passed. She's quite self-sufficient and even still driving locally. A niece living nearby often takes her out as well. We so admire and love this remarkable lady, and were thankful and happy to have been able to spend time with and celebrate with her.

Our NJ friend, Margaret, was 94 years young last week

The last time we visited NJ and visited with her was December 2019, and despite the months passing, we've kept in contact through weekly phone chats and snail-mail. Now, that we've all been vaccinated, it was wonderful to give hugs. We went to dinner with my brother (Tony) and sister-in-law (Anita). We pre-celebrated Anita's July birthday as we won't be back in NJ then.

This extended trip took 5 days including the 6-hour travel time from NH to NJ and vice versa. We were happy to see family and friends. It entailed a bit of drive time as none of them live near one another, and we visited with several couples as time allowed. And, there were other celebrations as well. My oldest childhood friend and husband (Phyllis and Jack) told us their 51st wedding anniversary was the day we went out for breakfast together 🥂.

Great niece Autumn Rose at 20 months

Yes, the youngest family members are growing up, as shown in these photos of our great niece, Autumn Rose, who is nearly 20 months old. She and her parents were at my brother's home  when we visited over the weekend.

Autumn Rose with mom Julie and "Pop-Pop" Tony

It was game time with mom Julie and my brother, Tony, also known as "pop-pop." 

Great niece Savannah Marie, 20 months & great nephew Nicholas James, 1 month

This is her cousin, our other great niece, Savannah Marie with baby brother and great nephew Nicholas James. These youngsters live in FL and the updated photos were sent by their mom (niece Jamie) during our visit. 

Grenville at White Castle, a favorite NJ fast food eatery

For Grenville, no NJ trip would be complete without a stop at White Castle, his favorite fast food eatery. Unfortunately, there are none in New England, so he had a fix at one near our South Plainfield, NJ hotel. Maybe that's why we always stays at that Hampton Inn 😋

White Castle celebrates its 100 birthday this year. The family-owned business (no franchises) was founded in 1921 by Walt Anderson and Billy Ingram in Wichita, KS. White Castle still sells its steamed beef patty with onions and a pickle, cheeseburgers also available. These small, square hamburgers are so easy to eat, that they were dubbed Sliders and sold by the sack. In 1921, White Castle was the first fast food hamburger establishment. By 1927, co-founder Ingram came up with the idea of carry-out and inaugurated the now familiar ad of Selling ‘em by the sack, which is how they are still sold today. Throughout the company's existence, the Ingram family's decision not to franchise or take on debt has kept this chain relatively small compared to similar restaurants.

The Polar Cub, Whitehouse, NJ, no road trip is complete without ice cream

Of course, for us no road trip would be complete without one of our favorites🍦and not just at any roadside stand. Its official beginnings are unknown, however, the Polar Cub in Whitehouse, NJ, has been a very popular highway creamery since the 1950s. While, the pandemic shuttered the stand last year, it reopened for the 2021 season in mid-May, luckily just before our visit. 

Yes, we were happy to be in the area after a late breakfast with friends. This was a lunch stop. Doesn't everyone believe in dessert first or last?

Thanks for your comments on last week's post about The Dumb Guy Museum in Portsmouth, NH. We agree it was the most unique museum we've visited on our travels to date. While, it might be hard to beat this find on future road trips, we'll definitely keep looking 👀.

Castling in Ireland

Last fall, we were in a group that traveled abroad on a Shades of Ireland tour, focused on that country. Befitting the trip name, the major portion of our travel was an 8-day motor coach (bus) tour through Ireland. A previous post highlighted one of the Ireland's most notable features, its green. colors. This one highlights a few castles; there's many more.

It's impossible to see all of Ireland's castles, but we managed a handful last fall. Did you know that there are more than 30,000 castles and ruins in this small nation, dating from the 12th to 16th centuries? 

The castles include any sort of fortifications, functioning and/or restored castles of any kind and while they remain standing, many are in ruins and serve as reminders of their importance in Irish history as defensive strongholds during wars and battles. 

Our castle count was  six: three were visited (Blarney, Kilkenny and Ross Castles), one hosted a medieval banquet (Bunratty Castle) and we stayed in one on our last night (Fitzgerald Castle). Our travel group photo was taken near another. This post doesn't necessarily follow in the order in which we visited each of these.

Blarney Castle, home of the Blarney Stone

Blarney Castle is possibly the best known Irish castle steeped in legend and mystery. Located in the countryside of County Cork, Cormac MacCarthy built the medieval castle over six centuries ago to protect the area against invaders. It replaced a stone building which had replaced a wooden building before it. 

Map of Blarney Castle & Gardens

While much of the structure is in partial ruins with no roof covering, some rooms are accessible. Beneath the main structure is a labyrinth of underground passages, built throughout the Middle Ages. Most are inaccessible to visitors today. 

The tall structure beside the castle is the watch tower, and while still standing it was not open to visitors. In its day, this freestanding fortification would have provided a high place for a guard to observe the surrounding area.

Inside the castle, it's a steep climb up some very narrow steps ending at battlements at the top of the castle and views of the surrounding countryside. As tempting as it was to ascend for the views, these passageways are quite confining, and I did not go up. However, Patrick made it to the top.

Kissing the Blarney Stone

At the top of the castle is the reason mosty come to visit this castle — to kiss a block of  limestone, not just any stone, but the world famous Blarney Stone. It carries the legend that whoever kisses it will be blessed with the gift of eloquence. 

Kissing the Blarney Stone is somewhat of an effort that requires leaning over backwards over a sheer drop to touch the stone with your lips. This is usually done with the help of someone. As uncomfortable as this seems now, it was life-threatening years ago with no safeguards of wrought-iron guide rails and protective crossbars. Back then, you would have been grasped by the ankles and dangled from the 90-foot tall castle. Now, doesn't that sound like an appealing visit? 

As with any popular sites, stories abound about the stone's origin. One involves Clíodhna, goddess of love and beauty and the patron of County Cork and Cormac MacCarthy, builder of the Castle. In the 15th century, MacCarthy was involved in a legal issue and appealed to Clíodhna. The legend goes that she told him to kiss the first stone he found on his way to court. After doing so, he pleaded his case with great eloquence and won, which led him to have the stone set into the tower of the castle.

Another story is that the stone was awarded to MacCarthy by Robert the Bruce, King of Scots, in 1314 as a reward for providing support in the Battle of Bannockburn, a battle between the army of Bruce and the army of King Edward II of England, during the First War of Scottish Independence. Legend holds that this was a piece of the Stone of Scone used in the coronation of Scottish kings.

In recent years, the stone has become famous for another reason. In 2009, it was named the most unhygienic tourist attraction. Researchers claimed the stone, smooched by upwards of 400,000 people a year, was the most germ-filled tourist site; no scientific evidence supports the claim. The stone is not alone in being declared germy; other popular listed sites are: Oscar Wilde’s Tomb, Paris; Karni Mata Temple, India; St. Mark’s Square, Venice; Grauman’s Chinese Theatre, Hollywood, CA; Gum Wall, Seattle, Washington.

No, we did not kiss the stone and, as noted earlier, I didn't climb up to see it. Given the acrobatics needed, it did not appeal to either of us; a few members of our group participated. Stone kissing halted during the pandemic and the site was shut down. At its June 2020 reopening, owner, Sir Charles Colthurst, who inherited the Blarney estate in 2003 and manages it full time, was the first to kiss the stone. It's sprayed with disinfectant through the day. Puckering up for a kiss requires waiting until it dries.

The castle grounds include lush gardens, spanning over 60 acres filled with natural rock formations and some poisonous plants, including wolfsbane, mandrake, ricinus, opium poppies and cannabis. Paths have signs pointing out various attractions like natural rock formations named Druid's Circle, Witch's Cave and the Wishing Steps. 

Kilkenny Castle

Kilkenny Castle has been standing for over 800 hundred years, dominating Kilkenny City and the South East of Ireland. Originally built in the 13th century by William Marshall, 4th  Earl of Pembroke, as a symbol of Norman control, Kilkenny Castle symbolized the fortunes of the powerful Butlers of Ormond for over 600 years.

The castle is located in Kilkenny, the Medieval Capital of Ireland. Before touring the fortress, we had hoped to take a walking tour of the city’s cobbled streets, but a steady rainfall the day we visited soon cancelled that plan. Instead, we had this train ride throughout town.

The castle was a symbol of Norman occupation and, in its original condition, formed an important element of the town's defenses with four large circular corner towers and a massive ditch. 

Inside, this fortress there's a grand library, drawing room, nursery, and 19th-century picture gallery showcasing the Butler family's art collection. The castle is surrounded by 50 acres of rolling parkland dotted with mature trees, a rose garden, and wildlife. 

Few buildings throughout Ireland have a longer history of continuous occupation than Kilkenny Castle which has been rebuilt, extended and adapted over a period of 800 years. The first castle was constructed in the Anglo-Norman period by Richard Fitz Gilbert de Clare, and in 1192 was replaced by a stone structure. The Butler family bought the castle in 1391 and it became their seat for the next 500 years.

During the Irish Confederate Wars of the 1640s, the Protestant Butlers were on the side of King Charles I. Catholic rebels captured Kilkenny Castle, and it was besieged by Oliver Cromwell during his conquest of Ireland. Following his return from exile in 1661, Butler remodelled the medieval castle as a more modern chateau.

As you can imagine, keeping up a castle is quite costly and the Butler family struggled to raise the monies needed to keep it maintained. In 1904, James Butler, 21st Earl of Ormonde, welcomed King Edward VIII when he visited Ireland. When Butler died, huge amounts of death duties meant that the castle’s future was in jeopardy. It was besieged by the Irish Free State during the Irish Civil War in 1922, and severely damaged. 

The Butler family relocated to London in 1935 and abandoned the castle.  Most of its furnishing were put up for public auction.

In 1967, Arthur Butler, 6th Marquess of Ormonde sold the abandoned and deteriorating castle to the Castle Restoration Committee for a ceremonial £50 (just over 60 USD) for the people of Kilkenny. He also bought the land in front of the castle from the trustees so that it would never be built on.

The castle and grounds are now managed by the Office of Public Works, and the gardens and parkland are open to the public. It's become the city of Kilkenny's most popular tourist attraction and hosts visitors year round. 

Ross Castle

Ross Castle is a 15th-century tower house situated on the edge of Lough Leane, the largest of the three lakes of Killarney, in the Killarney National Park, County Kerry. The fortress was built in the 15th century by the Irish Chieftain (O’ Donoghue Ross) and is a typical example of the stronghold of an Irish Chieftain during the Middle Ages. The site overlooks the lake. It's reputed to be one of the last strongholds of significance to fall to the forces of Oliver Cromwell  in the 1650s.

To reach the castle, our group traveled through Killarney National Park in open two-wheeled one-horse carts called jaunting cars. This is one of the most popular things to do in Killarney and is mainly reserved as a tourist activity.

Jaunting Carts in Killarney

Built as a mode of personal travel in the 1800s to mid 20th century, the two or four-wheeled horse-drawn rigs carried up to 4 four people. Jaunting became a popular way to describe a pleasure trip by saying that someone was off on a jaunt.

Defenders of the castle knew of a prophecy that foretold the castle could only be taken by a ship. Unfortunately, the leader of Cromwell's force, who also knew of the prophecy, launched a large boat on the lake. Seeing it hastened the defender's surrender thus fulfilling the prophecy.

Legend also has it that Irish Chieftain O’Donoghue slumbers below the lake waters. Every seven years, on the first morning of May, he is said to rise on his magnificent white horse. According to more legend, if you catch a glimpse of him, you'll enjoy good fortune the rest of your life. 

While we didn't see O'Donoghue or his stallion, we took an enjoyable boat ride on Lough Leane. As threatening as those skies behind us looked, it didn't rain.

The castle is open to visitors from early spring to late fall and is one of Killarney’s main tourist attractions, popular during the summer months. It was not open the day of our visit. 

Bunratty Castle

Bunratty Castle is a  15th century that was built in by the Earl of Thomond and stands on the banks of the Rathy River. The Earl entertained lavishly and was famous for his hospitality. Keeping with this tradition of hospitality, the Bunratty Castle Medieval Banquet was created in 1963, as a tourist attraction. For the past 61 years, banquets and entertainment have been provided twice nightly most of the year. These banquets are one of the oldest continual dining experiences in Ireland. Attendees have included international dignities, celebrities, U.S. Presidents and now our travel group.

The banquet was one of our tour options and we didn't get to see much of the castle exterior/interior, except for the entry and dining hall. We were greeted by the Earl's Butler who provided a short history of the castle. He was accompanied by the Ladies of the Castle who performed a  medieval madrigal. We were also given a sample of mead. (Mead is an alcoholic beverage consisting of three ingredients: fermented honey, water and yeast.  It's considered the earliest known alcoholic beverage; believed to predate wine by nearly 3,000 years. It is very sweet and somewhat of an acquired taste.)

This was a fun evening with members of our group being selected to preside at the head table as kings and their ladies. Royalty received the better seats and for everyone else, seating was bench-style along long oak tables and dining by candlelight to reflect the banqueting style of the medieval era.

Quite honestly, this was not the best meal on our trip. While we did not have to dine utensil-less, as might have been done in earlier days, the chicken dinner was uninspired.

After dinner entertainment consisted of a selection of Irish medieval and traditional songs instrumental music and step dancing.

King John's Castle or Limerick Castle is a commanding fortress perched on the banks of the River Shannon on King’s Island in Limerick. It was built on the orders of King John, brother of Richard the Lionheart and was completed around 1210. The castle was built on the boundary of the River Shannon to protect the city from the Gaelic kingdoms to the west and rebellion by Norman lords to the east and south.

The castle is one of the best-preserved Norman castles in Europe as its walls, towers and fortifications remain intact. It's also the most iconic building and visitor attraction in Limerick and served as a backdrop for a group photo. 

Fitzpatrick Castle Hotel

Fitzpatrick Castle was the last castle seen on our tour of Ireland and this one we stayed overnight. The original castle was built in 1740 by Colonel John Mapas. By 1755, it was acquired by Captain Maunsell, and then by a Colonel Loftus in 1770. By 1772, the colonel advertised the castle and its 150 acres for sale. During his time ithere, Colonel Loftus converted the barren stony soil to meadow and pasture and cut a road around the hill. In 1790, his successor, improved the estate further, spending the equivalent of nearly $4,000, quite in the late 18th century.

By 1840, a new owner, Robert Warren, enlarged the house renaming it Killiney Castle. He also donated land and most of the money for the building of Killiney Parish Church. Another owner, Mrs Chippendale Higgan, planted trees and shrubs that remain on the property today to provide a decorative setting for the castle. In the 20th century, Killiney Castle was used by the Black & Tans, the IRA and the Republicans in the Civil War before being burnt by Free State Troops. It was requisitioned by the Government during 1939-45 and used as billets for the army.

Killiney Castle changed hands again in the 1970s when the late Paddy and Eithne Fitzpatrick transformed it into a hotel renaming it (no surprise) Fitzpatrick Castle Hotel. Their daughter and her family own and maintain the hotel today. This stay was a wonderful way to end our tour of Ireland.

Our tour group's farewell dinner was held in the dining room. The next morning, some were leaving for Dublin Airport and flying home. Ourselves and a couple others would be heading to the airport and a flight to our next destination, Edinburgh, Scotland.

If you've come this far, Thanks as this was a very long post. There's more to come about our Ireland trip — cliffs, crystal and whiskey.

Towering in London

Last fall we were part of a group that traveled abroad on a Shades of Ireland tour, focused on that country. However, extras included a 3-day pre-extension to London and/or a 3-day post-extension to Edinburgh. We booked London, Ireland, and Edinburgh and saw as much as possible. This post focuses on one of the most visited sights in London. 

As anyone who has visited London knows, 3-days here is not enough. We were a small group (7) and attempted to see a few highlights, including the formidable Tower of London, a royal fortress and London landmark, that's an imposing structure even when seen from a distance. This complex of several buildings is set within two concentric rings of defensive walls and a former moat. It's situated on the North bank of the River Thames on the border with the central City of London. 

Touring the Tower of London was included as a self-guided tour on our London pre-extension option. Upon submitting our entry voucher, we received the above map. This large complex of buildings is spread over 18 acres. We explored as much as possible on a rain-free morning learning that the buildings and grounds historically served as a royal palace, political prison, place of execution, arsenal, royal mint, exotic animal menagerie and a public records office. 

William the Conqueror
National Portrait Gallery

Following his 1066 coronation as the first Norman king of England, William the Conqueror, Duke of Normandy, built the White Tower as a demonstration of power after invading England and defeating Harold, the last Saxon king of England, at the Battle of Hastings. 

The tower was sited strategically on the River Thames as a fortress and gateway to the capital. It was quite unlike anything before in England. It was built to awe, subdue and terrify Londoners and to deter foreign invaders. Over 1,000 years later, the Tower still amazes those who visit, including ourselves. (Entry to the tower is by a steep set of steps along an outer wall. We did not go in; it was late in the day, we were tired from walking the grounds.)

The central keep, better known as the White Tower was begun around 1078 and built of white limestone from Caen, France, from which it derives its name, and a local building material, Kentish ragstone. 

A keep was built by European nobility within castles as a fortified tower during the Middle Ages. It was used as a refuge or last resort if the castle was overtaken.

The White Tower is the most famous castle keep in the world

It was designed by Gundulf of Rochester, a Norman bishop. Masons from Normandy brought stone, most of the actual labor was done by local Englishmen. It took 20 years to build. William I didn't live to see it completed; it was first used by his son, William II.

Structures within the Tower of London complex

The Tower of London encompasses more than the White Tower, which is the core of this fortress. The walls of the White Tower are up to 14-feet thick in places. It has three floors, each connected by a spiral staircase located in one of the four corner turrets. During the 12th and 13th centuries, when fortifications were extended beyond the city wall, the White Tower became the core of a series of concentric defenses enclosing an inner and an outer curtain. 

The inner curtain at the Tower of London has 13 towers surrounding the White Tower. Best known are Bloody Tower, Beauchamp Tower and Wakefield Tower. The outer curtain was surrounded by a moat, originally fed by the River Thames but drained since 1843. The wall outside the moat has openings for cannons; next to them, modern artillery pieces are fired ceremonially on state occasions. 

The curtain, a feature common to most medieval castles, was a set of walls that surrounded and protected the interior. Walls were often connected by a series of towers adding strength and providing better defense of the ground outside the castle.

As the most secure castle in England, the Tower guarded royal possessions and even the royal family in times of war and rebellion. For 500 years, monarchs used the Tower as a luxurious palace. Kings and queens imprisoned rivals and enemies within its walls. Stories of prisoners are still said to haunt the Tower.

Entry to Traitors gate from River Thames

The whole complex of buildings covers 18 acres. The only entrance from the land is at the Southwest corner, from the City. When the River Thames was still a major highway of London, a 13th-century watergate, Traitors’ Gate was in use. Prisoners were brought through it to the Tower, which was used as a state prison. A political prisoner conveyed through the gate awaited either a long period of incarceration or a usually public spectacle of execution.

The site became notorious as a site of torture, but records show that few people were tortured there; executions, however, were different and more common at the Tower of London. Prisoners were executed on Tower Green or, outside the castle, in public on Tower Hill, by means of beheading, firing squad or hanging. Initially not intended as a prison, the Tower of London housed those accused of treason or religious infractions. It witnessed 22 executions, the last in 1941. 

Princes Edward & Richard by John Everett Millais, 1878

In 1483, Princes Edward and Richard, 12 and 10, sons of the late Edward IV, were last seen in the tower before their disappearance and suspected murder by their uncle, Richard III, who claimed the throne. In 1674, two skeletons were unearthed. The bones were re-examined in 1933 and proved to be those of boys the same ages as the princes when they disappeared.

Thomas More, Guy Fawkes, Catherine Howard, Ann Bolyen were all executed

In 1535, writer and statesman Sir Thomas More was beheaded after refusing to recognize King Henry VIII as the head of the Church of England. A year later, Henry VIII ordered the beheading of his wife, Anne Boleyn and in 1542, he had his fifth wife, Catherine Howard, executed at the Tower of London. In 1554, Lady Jane Grey and her husband, Lord Guildford Dudley were beheaded on Tower Hill. Political prisoner Guy Fawkes was executed in 1606 after found guilty of guarding explosives and gunpowder in a 1605 plot to blow up Parliament,

German spies (11) were executed at the Tower of London during WW I when London underwent numerous attacks, only one bomb was dropped on the Tower and landed in the moat. The facility didn't fare as well during WW II suffering significant damage during multiple bombings, including the destruction of several buildings. It was later restored for public access.

Yeoman Warder who provided us with much historical background

Since 1485, security at the Tower of London complex has been maintained by a special order of guards called Yeomen Warders, originally part of Yeomen of the Guard, the monarch’s personal bodyguard. They are informally known as Beefeaters, a name allegedly based after a 17th century Italian nobleman commented they were given a large daily ration of beef. Recognized worldwide as symbols of the Tower of London, the Yeoman Warders were originally part of the Yeomen of the Guard, the monarch’s personal bodyguards who travelled with him. Henry VIII (1507-47) decreed that some would stay and guard the Tower permanently. Today, the group of over 30 men and women are all drawn from the British military and each must have at least 22 years of active service. 

Yeomen Warders provide free guided tours within the Tower of London and carry out ceremonial duties, which include the oldest military ritual, Ceremony of the Keys, the nightly gate locking at the Tower for over 700 years. Red state dress uniforms are worn for special occasions and special events, such as Gun Salutes and the firing of the huge cannon on the Wharf.

Fusiliers Museum was originally used to house officers

The armories that now occupy the White Tower, as well as a later 17th-century brick building alongside, house arms and armor from the early Middle Ages to modern times. Arms and armor were made, tested and stored here until the 1800s. The Fusiliers Museum is housed in a building originally built as officers' quarters. The building still houses the Royal Regiment of Fusiliers' Regimental Headquarters and the Officers' Mess, used for formal dinners and ceremonial occasions.

The Tower once controlled the supply of the nation’s money and produced England's coins for five centuries. All coins of the realm were made at the Tower Mint from the reign of Edward I until 1810. Initially handcrafted, the mint introduced modern coin-making techniques and eventually relocated to a purpose-built facility in the 1800s.

Top: Imperial State Crown (1937, Sovereign's Sceptre with Cross (1661), 

Bottom: St Edward's Crown (1661) Queen Elizabeth's Crown & Koh-i-Noor diamond (1937)

Kings and queens used the Tower to safeguard themselves, their valuables and their jewels. Today, the crown jewels comprising more than 100 objects and over 23,000 gemstones worth over $30 billion are among the most popular attractions. 

Line-up of people waiting to see the Crown Jewels

Housed in the Waterloo Barracks they include the platinum crown of the late Queen Mother (Elizabeth) set with the 106-carat Koh-i-Noor diamond in 1937, and the Imperial State Crown, worn by the monarch at the State Opening of Parliament. These jewels are kept under armed guard; no photographs are permitted. (The photos above are from the Historic Royal Palaces website.)

A flock of ravens are permanent Tower residents and are cared for by the Yeoman Warder or Ravenmaster. The highly intelligent birds have a flight feather trimmed to deter them from flying off. Free to roam within during daytime hours (as shown in the photo) and are caged overnight. 

According to legend, the tower and the monarchy will fall if ravens ever leave the fortress. The raven-keeping tradition dates to King Charles II (1660-1685), the first monarch to insist that the birds be protected. When the royal astronomer complained that ravens were leaving droppings on his telescope, King Charles moved the Royal Observatory to Greenwich.

Statues of animals once in the Tower of London complex and remains of the moat

For over 600 years, the Tower of London was home to an exotic collection of wild animals that had been received as royal gifts. In 1230, King Henry III had lions, elephants and a polar bear in his collection. In the mid-1830’s, the animals were relocated to a new home, now known as London Zoo, by the Duke of Wellington.

As protector of the Crown Jewels, home of the Yeomen Warders and its legendary guardians, the ravens, the Tower of London attracts over 3 million visitors annually. Designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1988, it is an exceptional example of a medieval structure, remarkably intact that retains its historical significance. When gates are locked and visitors have left, it embraces a thriving community within as home to the Yeomen Warders and their families, the Resident Governor and a garrison of soldiers. There is also a doctor, chaplain and, of course, a pub (after all this is the UK).

The Tower of London is owned by The Crown Estate, which belongs to His Majesty The King in ‘the right of the Crown’ by virtue of being the reigning monarch. It is not the private property of the crown, and therefore cannot be sold.

This is not a final post about our UK travels from late 2023. We experienced so many new-to-us adventures. I hope you will travel along as more highlights are shared in future posts.